Wine Guys
Savoring the rosés of summer
Thank heavens European Union leaders found their marbles. Of course, they never should have lost them.
For a short while, it appeared the Union was going to declass rosés by allowing wine producers to simply blend red and white wines. The idea was an inventive way to reduce the excess of European wine and satisfy a world thirst for one of the few growing categories. As you can imagine but as the Union could obviously not, the proposal caused quite a stir among winemakers who take pride in their rosés.
This was never more evident than in southern France where some winemakers specialize in rosé. How could the Union –especially the French representatives who supported the proposal –be so insulting?
Thankfully, the proposal died but not without a debate on what constitutes rosé. Blending red and white wines can be done in your home; making a quality rosé cannot.
A true rosé is made by allowing the juice to stay in contact with the red skins for a brief period. The juice is then drained from the skins and fermented. The exposure time usually determines the wine’s tint, which can range from salmon to a deep red. In France, the most common grape varieties are grenache, mourvedre and cinsault. Pinot noir and sangiovese are gaining in popularity in other wine-growing regions.
Any plan to blend red and white would have dramatically altered the category. A winemaker, for instance, could add a dash of merlot to a sauvignon blanc and have rosé –albeit a terrible one. Red wine will just add tannins to a wine presently devoid of them. This was an idea to benefit producers sitting on surplus wine; it certainly wouldn’t have benefit consumers.
We have been touting rosés for years and finally it appears they are rising in popularity. These are not the sweet white zinfandels that for years gave rosés a bad name. A dry rosé has everything going for the consumer: price, fun, flavor and versatility.
Prices for these wines –including the French versions –are generally less than $15 a bottle. Their color and freshness make them an excellent apertif, guests love them, and they are a great match to fruit, chicken, cold pastas, cold-cut sandwiches, salmon and the usual summer fare.
The most serious French rosé is made in the Tavel, Cotes de Provence and Bandol regions of southern France. Here Domaine Ott makes rosé in its odd-shaped bottle for $30 a bottle. But elsewhere in the region, you can find good rosé for under $10.
With summer well under way, we highly recommend these rosés:
• Chateau Grande Cassagne 2008 Rosé ($11). One of our favorites, we buy this only by the case. The blend is generally the same every year: grenache, syrah and mourvedre grown on 40-year-old vines. Deep pink in color, dry and loaded with strawberry and raspberry flavors and floral aromatics.
• Mas Carlot Rosé 2008 ($11). We like the finesse in this wine from Robert Kacher Selections, who we consider to be the “king of French rosé.” Mourvedre is added to the grenache-syrah blend. The result is strawberry and spice flavors.
• Mas de Guiot Rosé 2008 ($11). Ripe, forward berry fruit and generous aromas. Blended with grenache, syrah and mourvedre.
• Domaine Les Aphillanthes Rosé 2008 ($14). Tart, strawberry flavors and good acidity.
• Grand Veneur Reserve Cotes du Rhone Rosé 2008 ($11). Raspberry and cherry flavors with a floral nose and nice mineral component.
• Cline Mourvedre Rosé 2008 ($16). Using grapes from Contra Costa, Cline delivers a fresh plum and berry-flavored rosé.
• Beckmen Vineyards Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache Rosé 2008 ($18). This blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre doesn’t mess around. Good, serious fruit with complexity and finish.
• Alexander Valley Rosé of Sangiovese 2008 ($12). Ripe, off-dry fruit flavors, crisp and vibrant.
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