Wine Guys / By Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr
Variety in pinot noirs
One of the things we have always enjoyed about wine is how a grape variety can vary between winemakers. Although we find too much similarity in chardonnays, we can’t say the same for syrah, sauvignon blanc, merlot and most other grape varieties.
Following an excellent column by Eric Asimov (New York Times, March 11), there has been a lot of recent discussion—amongst our wine friends and on Internet chat boards—about the stylistic differences in pinot noir. For the column, Asimov interviewed California winemakers who are making fresh and delicate pinot noirs and contrasts their wines with the bolder and more alcoholic pinot noirs made in California and Oregon.
Supporters of the bolder wines that Asimov eschewed were apopletic. Many of them are experts in the trade and some were even winemakers who favored the bolder style.
But the less emotional readers came to the logical conclusion: what’s wrong with having both?
We remember our introduction to Calera wines when we visited the facility more than 15 years ago. The color was light and transparent, unlike many of the pinot noirs we had seen before. We thought the wine would be one dimensional in the mouth, but instead it showed off a beguiling, feminine character—not unlike the great pinot noirs of Burgundy, whose color is often just as light.
Calera has embraced pinot noir with finesse for a long time. But winemakers in Oregon have produced unctuous fruit bombs with high alcohol, full body and great complexity. We love them for their fat.
The difference is a result of climate and soil, but moreso the winemaker’s choice. Burgundy has a cooler climate and its fickle fall weather poses a risk to grape growers who usually choose to pick pinot noir when it’s safe—but not necessarily when the grapes are ripe. To compensate for low alcohol that comes from less natural sugar, Burgundy winemakers often have to chapatalized their wines.
California, on the other hand, is drenched in sun. Winemakers have a choice of when to pick—and many choose to wait until the grapes are loaded with sugar. Wine with alcohol as high as 15 percent are going to be bigger in style— gutsy, concentrated, masculine wines that will grip the palate and not let go. Unfortunately, richness comes at the expense of acidity—a key component to matching wines with food.
More winemakers in California and Oregon have been adopting this trend toward bold pinot noirs after the public has demonstrated greater interest in juicy, fruit-forward wines. We saw the same happen in Australia where some popular winemakers like Mollydooker are making super-ripe shiraz that many will argue is way over the top to enjoy with food.
This may sound like criticism of the bigger style, but it’s not. We have both styles in our cellar and enjoy tasting the differences. We just have to pick the occasion.
We recently a tasted several pinot noirs just to appreciate the range in style. Here are some suggestions:
• Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Pinot Noir 2007 ($20). Simple strawberry flavors, bright and fresh with a smooth texture. Jim Clendenen’s single-vineyard pinot noirs come at a price, but they are extraordinary wines.
• Cambria Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 ($25). Made by Kendall- Jackson, this fleshy pinot noir is delicious—one of our favorites. With grapes grown in the fertile Santa Maria region, it sports ripe cherry fruit, spice and a touch of oak. Good mouthfeel. Great value.
• Cloudline Pinot Noir 2007 ($21). A good sipping wine and an excellent value, this Oregon wine can be enjoyed for its simple but plentiful fruit flavors: strawberries and raspberries. Silky texture and no tannins to speak of.
• Merryvale Carneros Pinot Noir 2007 ($35). Medium body with bright cherry fruit and good acidity.
• Clos du Bois Reserve Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2006 ($20). Using grapes from the cool Russian River Valley, this pinot has a supple texture but good tannin to firm it up. Fresh cherry flavors and acidity make it a good balance between the extracted pinot noirs and the delicate ones.
The Wine Guys represent Relish Magazine, available in The Buffalo News the first Thursday of the month. Visit www.relishmag.com for more.
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