One Tank Trip /The Amish Trail
Wind through the back roads and visit ‘the plain people’
New York’s Amish Trail is on the rise. With a grant from Explore New York, local municipal support, and a host of enthusiastic entrepreneurs, a bona fide movement to make the New York trail a tourism destination is under way.
Carol Lorenc, former head of the Jamestown Area Chamber, is promoting Western New York’s Amish Trail with Amish Flair Tours. Spurred on by collaborator Patricia Frost, owner of Cherry Creek’s Depot, who told her, “Well Carol, you like to talk, so you can be the guide,” Lorenc has become exactly that.
Winding through the back roads of South Dayton, Conewango Valley, Randolph and Cherry Creek with a tour group, Lorenc spins a rich, historic story about “the plain people.” Their history is as intricate as the many quilts, wood workings and crafts you’ll see on your journey, made by those known as “old order Amish.”
“Old order” is the most conservative of Amish factions. Six families came from Ohio in 1948, attracted by plentiful cheap land, and now in Chautauqua and Cattaraugus counties, there are 23 church districts, each consisting of about 100 members. Each district has its own minister, and there are three elected bishops who oversee the entire population. Most religious services are conducted in homes, though every other Sunday, members will assemble for rites at a congregant’s home. As strict adherents to traditional practices and beliefs, the old order Amish keep their shop doors closed on Sundays, and while allowing some photographs of their wares, pictures of the Amish themselves are not permitted.
As we drove the country, and occasionally unpaved, roads, passing numerous Amish houses, we were always welcomed with a wave from what are obviously very friendly “plain people.”We saw several one-room schoolhouses, and we were fortunate to drive by at recess, with the children outdoors and playing. Curious as we approached, the youngsters eventually warmed to wave, as did the men harvesting corn by hand, horse and wagon. On this ride, one feels years back in time, if not a century or two.
We stopped at Mattie Hostetler’s Quilt&Gift Shop (529 Hunt Rd., Cherry Creek), where Hostetler, mother of 10 daughters and four sons, had plenty of quilts available. Hand-stitched by Hostetler and her daughters, the colorful quilts are cotton patterns over polyester filling, priced from $285 to $550. The shop also carries Amish dolls, table runners and mini-quilts for wall hanging or innovative decorating.
Our tour stopped at the Cherry Creek Inn, 1022 West Road, Cherry Creek (296-5105, www.cherrycreekinn.net ), where proprietor Sharon Howe welcomes all for either an Amish-style meal or Victorian tea. Built in the 1860s by George Nelson Frost, in the Italianate Villa style, the splendid house has three full rooms and a loft suite, suitable for six people. Sitting in the midst of country farms, on the edge of 31 acres of pastureland, inn features include a country kitchen, parlor, formal dining room, hot tub and beautiful gardens and grounds. Its redecorated carriage house has a magnificent second-floor library and a banquet room for large groups. The Mustard Seed, 315 Pine St., South Dayton (988-3800; www.themustardseedrestaurant.com ), is a gem of a restaurant. This country culinary delight grew out of a Bible study group, when someone suggested to founder and co-owner Nettie Puleff that they start bringing some food. And so they did. Now they bring their appetites and ideas, and, as Puleff says, “We’ve created a menu that works for our customers.” And work it does. The Mustard Seed uses organic ingredients in many of its recipes, including several breads baked on the premises using organic flour. It serves an outstanding vegetarian chili, plus a number of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free items, as well as hormone-free hamburgers.
The Depot, 6801 Depot St., Cherry Creek (296-5697), is a regular stop on the tour. A restored Victorian railroad station, its waiting and baggage rooms display railroad memorabilia, antiques, and Amish handicrafts.
In Conewango Valley, the Valley View Cheese Company, 6016 Route 62 (296-5821), affords visitors the opportunity to sample and purchase a variety of cheeses. The house specialty is ricotta cheese, and many other Amish items are available here, including jams, jellies, candy, candles, wood and leather goods. A mile and a half farther down Route 62 is Miller’s Baked Goods, where Barbara Miller and family sell homemade bread, pies, cookies and sticky buns, all baked in a wood-burning stove.
Fisher’s Amish Country Store, 10 Jamestown St., Randolph (358-9730, www.fishersamish.com ) sells Amish quilts, baskets and furniture. And carving out their own innovative niche, Fisher’s will give a spontaneous, 2z-hour guided tour of area Amish. The Fisher guide rides along with the visitors. If your interest is in quilts, rugs, or even lumber, Fisher’s will take you there. The impromptu tour is available for $35 for two, with a $2.50 charge for each additional person. Oregano’s, 142 Main St., Randolph (358-4429), serves Italian fare with an Amish flair, as the interior is decorated with Amish goods, from wall-hanging quilts to the little lazy Susans on every table. All are for sale, and owner Lance McAllister estimates his dining room is completely redecorated every month by the turnover.
You can venture out on the Amish with a tour guide or on your own. Maps are available at local shops such as The Mustard Seed and Oregano’s.
If you go:
For your own personal tour, take Route 62 south through Gowanda to South Dayton, Leon and Conewango Valley, and you will find yourself on the Amish Trail. A dedicated Web site ( www.NyAmishTrail.com ) launched last year, or call 358-9701. Amish Flair Tours can be reached at 962-3412. Upcoming events on the trail: Christmas Extravaganza, Dec. 4-6 in Randolph; Christmas Tree Lighting, Dec. 5; Gowanda; Christmas Craft Show, Dec. 5, South Dayton; Silver Bells Festival, Dec. 5-6, Salamanca; Old Fashioned Christmas Service, Dec. 13, Leon.
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