One-Tank Trip /Ithaca
Ithaca is a college town steeped in history, nature
Published: June 07, 2009, 12:30 am
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ITHACA—“Ithaca is Gorges,” read the bumper sticker on the Mini-Cooper in front of us as we drove along Cayuga Street into the heart of town. A city of about 30,000, Ithaca’s population doubles when Cornell University and Ithaca College are in session. The result is a small city with an obvious appreciation and respect for intellect, for art, for the environment, and for the natural beauty that envelops it, all with a hint of a hippie vibe humming just beneath the surface.
We set our sights first on Ithaca Falls, the crown jewel of the milelong Fall Creek gorge. We entered at Lake Street between East Falls and Lincoln and walked along the creek bed where sunlight danced across the flowing water and shimmered along the rocks. Parents watched their kids chuck stones across the creek; young couples stole kisses on the bank’s edge; older couples walked gingerly, holding each other by the elbow: a perfect Norman Rockwell slice of Americana. We spotted the falls farther up stream. The water that rushed over the top looked like bundles of silken silver thread spooling over and over upon itself, infusing the air with a fine mist and an echoing roar.
Feeling connected to nature, we headed to the perfect place for lunch, the well-known Moosewood Restaurant at 215 Cayuga St., which Bon Appetit named one of the 20th century’s 13 most influential restaurants. Founded in 1973, this collectively owned vegetarian eatery has produced 11 cookbooks and is now selling organic salad dressings, refrigerated vegetarian soups and frozen main dish entrees in supermarkets.
Bill ordered the best meal of us all, the Spring Frittata—layers of roasted potatoes, garlic sauteed kale, sundried tomatoes and Havarti and cheddar cheeses. Bob’s Greek lasagna, although full of flavor, was also full of noodles that had spent a little too much time in the oven. No matter that, Moosewood has done an outstanding job of bringing vegetarian cuisine to the masses.
After lunch, we drove up toward the Cornell University campus, stopping first in Collegetown at Rulloff’s. A local hangout with a large stained glass window on one end, a back bar intricately carved in thick mahogany, and window seating at the other end with a great view of College Avenue, this place charmed. Its namesake, Edward Rulloff, didn’t, though. A self-described genius, he spoke 28 languages; however, his dark side was responsible for the reported poisoning of his sister-in-law and niece, and the killings of his wife and daughter. After murdering a store clerk, he was executed in the last public hanging in New York State. His unusually large brain is on display in the Psychology Department at Cornell.
A campus tour
Before hiking down the Cascadilla Gorge, we strolled around the Cornell campus, lucky to have an alum in our group. Bill led us through the spectacular student union, the Gothic-designed Willard Straight Hall, murals of medieval scenes painted on its expansive vaulted ceilings. Next, we paid a visit to a study room in White Hall that Bill had deemed “Captain Nemo’s Library” over 30 years ago. I loved the antique hardwood study tables; the metal bookshelves, lined with hundreds of volumes; the two spiral staircases that wound their way up to the second floor of stacks; the intricate wrought iron work throughout, and the overstuffed leather chairs in front of huge windows with a view of the city. There’s no doubt that at Cornell, serious learning meets serious money, all against a backdrop of age-old tradition.
Connecting Cornell directly to the city is a trail through the Cascadilla Gorge. The upper end of the trail in Collegetown is located just to the west of the College Avenue bridge over the gorge. We headed down the walkway that leads behind the Cornell Center for the Theatre Arts from College Avenue to hook into the trail. We descended the 1.3-mile gorge path on shale steps, surrounded by sun dappled leaves, mossy canyon walls, and mini-waterfalls. People picnicked on the banks, waded in the shallow waters, and basked in the sun, making for a perfect presummer day.
Back in Ithaca proper, we decided on dinner at the Boatyard Grille, a decent enough place with lots of seafood choices on the menu and a pleasant view of the lake from the patio. Their secret weapon, I’m sure, is our waiter, Anthony. He recommended the Blackened Tuna, which arrived tender and perfectly prepared, complimented by wasabi mashed potatoes. And the Blue Crab stuffed shrimp, another of his choices, left Marcy wanting more. He didn’t say much about the ribeye steaks Bill and I ordered and I knew why when they ended up being rather tough and tasteless, except for the overpowering tang of the rub and sauce lavished on them. I knew I’d made a good choice ordering the Pineapple Foster, though, when Anthony’s eyes sparkled at its mention. Chunks of golden pineapple and pecans flamed in a dark rum and brown sugar glaze—served with vanilla ice cream, of course.
We capped off the evening at the Chapter House, a Collegetown bar noted as a grad student haunt. Cornell and Ithaca mugs line the wall, more are suspended over the bar, and initials and names and dates are carved deep into the wood-paneled walls. Myriad brews are on tap here—everything from Victory Garden Monkey to Smutty Nose, from Magic Hat No. 9 to Ithaca Partly Sunny —all priced at about $5. Considering the photos of college kids on the walls, the back room with long communal tables, the dart boards, and the carved-up walls, there’s no forgetting that this is the quintessential college bar.
That night we stayed at the Hound& Hare bed-and-breakfast with Zetta Sprole as our hostess. Her magnificent white brick Colonial style house was built in 1829 on a military tract given to Sprole’s great-grandfather by George Washington for service in the Revolutionary War. The interior is chock full of antiques and knickknacks that are sure to catch the eye, the atmosphere is friendly and the prices are reasonable for the area.
The next day, we devoted to seeing the Commons, a two-block pedestrian mall that is peppered with benches, cafe tables, plantings, graceful sculptures, street musicians, restaurants and, of course, unique shops. We began at the Titus Gallery, which houses much of the watercolor work of local artist Susan Booth Titus. In a mix of old and new, African masks adorn walls near nature oriented lithographs and shelves of garnet, jade and peridot pendants and bracelets. The pottery here is exquisite—including some nice Roseville pieces and other notable antique vases.
At Handwork, everyone who works in the store is an artist and three-quarters of the stock is member work from local artists. Coppery colored textile purses gleam from one shelf while colorful felted hats relax on another. All kinds of wooden items—cutting boards, trays and puzzle hangings—adorn the walls and glass wind chimes hang from the ceiling. The close-knit co-op feel of this place and its excellent hand-crafted local goods make it worth a stop.
Ten Thousand Villages was up next. A not-for-profit free trade enterprise, it features handicrafts from more than 30 countries. Women make 75 percent of the goods sold here—with no child labor and no forced labor. Most goods are made from renewable resources through sustainable means which produce no toxic byproducts.
Manager Mike Westlund said that field workers visit countries where the work is being done to share information and to be sure that humanitarian standards are being met. Available here you’ll find beautifully woven baskets; shockingly bright kites shaped like butterflies, fish and boats; wooden panpipes and hand-carved drums; scarves in reds, pinks and lavenders; and perfect summer purses with plenty of attitude. Shop here and be the good you wish to see in the world!
After perusing the goods at the Ithaca Hemp Store half-price sale, Bob chose a hemp shirt and Marcy a skirt of the same natural fiber. The engaging gentleman at the counter gave us a tip for future trips. On Saturdays and Sundays from April through December, a Farmers’ Market set up on Third Street sells produce, lunches and locally made crafts at excellent prices.
On the way out of town, we made a quick stop at the Ithaca Bakery, which dates to the 1950s. In addition to delicious baked goods, this large enterprise offers a fresh food bar and imports such as olive oils, exotic dressings, marmalades, jams and cheeses along with a clever line of “Be Well Red Teas.” If you need some sleep, choose “get some zzz!.” Interested in weight loss? Try “get lost.” Want to improve your skin tone? Pick up some “get gorgeous.”
It seems that no matter what your choice of pleasures, Ithaca is, in fact, not just “gorges,” but gorgeous!
If you go
For information: www.visitithaca.com,www.downtownithaca.com Hound&Hare: 1031 Hanshaw Road, Ithaca; www.houndandhare.com , (607) 257-2821. Rooms are $125-$200.
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