One-Tank Trip / Toronto
Savor a taste of Toronto’s Little India
TORONTO — The air is thick with the aroma of pungent spices. Brightly clothed women with gold bangles, dangling earrings and silk headscarves float through the street. Bollywood music blares through the open windows of passing cars. Traveling can be a feast for the senses. Fortunately, if you don’t have the time or money to fly to the subcontinent, you can experience South Asia close to home at Toronto’s Gerrard India Bazaar.
Little India, as it is also called, is one of North America’s largest ethnic markets of Indian goods. Spanning about nine city blocks, this stretch of Gerrard Street, a short cab ride from the Eaton Centre, is crammed with grocery stores, somosa stands, sari emporiums, jewelers, sweet shops and a wide array of South Asian eateries. The only indication that you are in Toronto is the CN Tower and skyscrapers you can see in the skyline. On street level, surrounded by fairy lights, Hindu gods and Bollywood movie posters, you couldn’t be further away from the modern city.
Surprisingly, one thing that “Little India” does not have is a large South Asian population. Although some Pakistani immigrants have recently moved here, the area has historically been and still remains a business district that attracts customers from afar.
It all began in the late 1970s when Gian Naaz bought a theater to show Bollywood films. Hundreds of fans flocked to the theater, and businesses opened up around it to accommodate them. The Naaz is now closed, but the marketplace and restaurants remain, making it a magnet for locals and tourists alike.
Looking around on any given night, you can see families strolling down the street eating roasted corn from street vendors, teenagers hanging out at video shops listening to Bollywood music, brides-to-be picking out fabric, and window shoppers peering into jewelry stores at the shining gold displays. Nobody is rushing — this is a place to stroll and to soak in the atmosphere.
Some come for the spices which are said to be the freshest around, perfect for “garam mas-ala” (a spice mixture). Others come for the shopping and enjoy browsing the shops for their rich, colorful textiles and ornate jewelry.
The biggest draw for most people, however, is the food. It truly is a foodie’s paradise with restaurants representing a multitude of regions. Enjoy South Indian dosa, lentil crepes filled with potato curry and utaapan, vegetable pancakes. Indulge in butter chicken and a wide variety of rich curries. Experiment with different tastes and discover if dishes like idly, chana bhatura, bhel puri, papadi chaat and kulfifalooda taste as wonderful as they sound.
Buffets are popular at many of the eateries, making it easy to try new dishes. Decor can be modest, but the service is friendly and prices reasonable. Most buffets are less than $15, which is a bargain considering the quality and variety of the food served.
You are sure to be full after eating, so go ahead and try paan, a mixture of seeds and spices traditionally used to aid digestion and cleanse the palate. Or sip a Kashmiri tea before heading back onto the strip for another stroll.
Evening is the best time to visit. Everything is lit up, more people are milling about and you can forget you’re in a modern city and be transported to another land. It’s not pristine. They are pigeons and dirt; buildings are rundown and some are downright shabby. In a strange way, this contributes to its authenticity. The Gerrard India Bazaar is not a place erected for tourists. It’s the real McCoy, and anyone wanting to experience South Asian culture, food and marketplace won’t be disappointed.
If you go
The Gerrard India Bazaar offers many shopping options.
Here are a few.
Fabrics and saris: The Six Kumars Silk House, 1400 Gerrard St. East; Himalayas Textiles, 1447 Gerrard St. East; Dulha Dulhan Fashion, 1416 Gerrard St. East.
Gold jewelry: Noors Jewellers, 1390 Gerrard St. East; Nugujrat Jewellers, 1425 Gerrard St. East.
Spices: Kohinoor Foods, 1438 Gerrard St. East
Restaurants: Madras Durbar, 1435 Gerrard St. East; the Famous Indian Cuisine, 1437 Gerrard St. East; Siddhartha Pure Vegetarian Cuisine, 1411 Gerrard St. East; Skylark, 1433 Gerrard St. East; Regency Restaurant, 1423 Gerrard St. East.
Directions
From Buffalo: Take the QEW east to the Gardiner Expressway. If you’re driving right
to the Gerrard India Bazaar area, you’ll want to take Gardiner Expressway East to Lakeshore East, turn left on Coxwell, and left again on Gerrard Street East.
If you’re starting your stay elsewhere in Toronto, you can take the subway and bus to the area. Take the subway to the Coxwell station, where you’ll get off and take the No. 22 bus to Gerrard/Coxwell and walk two blocks west. Or from Greenwood station, take the No. 31 bus, get off at Gerrard/Greenwood and walk two blocks east.
A more scenic option is the 506 streetcar. This cross-city route will take you through many of Toronto’s diverse neighborhoods including Little India. Get off at Gerrard/Ashdale intersection. Avoid rush hour though, as it can get very crowded.
For info: www.toronto.ca/ttc
