This dessert looks like a traditional creme brulee but holds a surprise: rosy, gingery chunks of nectarines. Choose fruit that is ripe yet slightly firm. Peaches do nicely, as do plums and apricots or any combination of such fruits with pits, but tangy nectarines work best. Gingersnaps add extra zest and absorb fruit juices to keep the custards from becoming soggy.

Use a small culinary blowtorch to caramelize the sugar. If you broil these custards, they might curdle.

Make ahead: The gingered, sugared fruit needs to sit for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour. The brulees can be made (and refrigerated) a day in advance. Caramelize the sugar just before serving. Gingered Nectarine Brulees

6 medium (about 2 pounds) nectarines

1 tablespoon jarred ginger puree

1/2 cup sugar, plus 6 tablespoons for sprinkling

12 gingersnaps

8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature (do not use low-fat or nonfat)

1 large egg

Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven; preheat to 325 degrees. Boil a kettle of water (for a bain-marie, or water bath).

Pit the nectarines, then cut the halves into 1-inch chunks (to yield about 6 cups). Place them in a medium bowl with the ginger puree and vcup of the sugar; stir lightly to coat the fruit. Cover and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour, then strain.

Place six 8-ounce custard cups or ramekins in a large roasting pan, spaced evenly apart.

Place 2 gingersnaps in each cup or ramekin so the cookies lie flat; break them to make them fit. Divide the fruit equally among the cups or ramekins, pressing it down lightly to pack it in and create a flat surface.

Place the cream cheese in the bowl of a stand mixer or hand-held mixer; beat on medium speed for a minute or two, until smooth and creamy. Add the remaining v cup sugar and then the egg, mixing well after each addition; stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Divide the mixture evenly among the cups or ramekins, spreading it to cover the fruit.

Place the filled roasting pan on the middle oven rack; use the boiled water to fill the pan so the water reaches about one-third to halfway up the sides of the custard cups. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the filling is set but not browned. Carefully transfer the cups or ramekins to a wire rack to cool completely, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

Just before serving, sprinkle a tablespoon of sugar evenly across each brulee, then invert each one (over a plate or the sink) so that any excess sugar will fall away, leaving a thin coating. Use a culinary blowtorch to caramelize the sugar just until it is brown and bubbling.

Allow the brulees to rest for several minutes so the sugar topping hardens, then serve. Makes 6 servings.