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Kenmore Village Restaurant: Very special specials

Published:December 18, 2009, 8:58 AM

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Updated: August 21, 2010, 3:41 AM

Alarge menu with printing on every panel wasn’t enough space for the cooks at the Kenmore Village Restaurant. Two plastic flaps inside the menu hold cards listing regular specials, some limited to weekday mornings but extended until 3 p. m. on weekends. The menu also holds a separate sheet listing the day’s specials.

It took Ruth, Dan, John and me a few minutes to figure out what was available when, and we ended up ordering from both the regular and the specials list. Some of the dishes we sampled might not be available every day, including a few that sounded yummy—a Philly cheese steak omelet for $7.50 and triple-berry pancakes for $6.95.

The regular menu also lists a 2-2-2—two eggs, pancakes or French toast, and bacon, sausage or ham—for $4.55.A hungry person could upgrade to a 3-3-3 for $6.50.

When asked what the options were for toast, the server took a deep breath and rattled off this list: “White, wheat, rye, sourdough, Italian, raisin, English muffin, bagel, biscuit and I’m stopping there!”

Three potato pancakes ($5.75), served with applesauce or sour cream, were crispy on the outside and steamy inside. Although not exceptionally large, they were perfectly cooked and delicious.

Corned beef hash, served with two eggs, home fries and toast ($6.25) filled a large plate. Tiny cubes of potato in the hash indicated that it might have come from a can, but we happened to like canned hash that’s been browned to a delightful crustiness. The eggs were steaming hot, the hash browns plentiful.

A Polish sausage casserole was an inspired creation. Served in an oblong casserole dish, it started with a generous layer of sliced kielbasa, topped with hash browns. Two perfectly cooked over-easy eggs were placed on top, and the entire casserole was drizzled with Hollandaise.

A maple-cinnamon strata ($6.95) was made with cubed cinnamon bread soaked in maple egg custard and dotted with bits of cream cheese, then baked. It was moist, dense and delicious.

The Kenmore Village Restaurant is open from 6 a. m. to 9 p. m. daily except Sunday, when it closes at 3 p. m. It is handicapped-accessible.

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