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Mythos: Classy and cheap

Published:November 20, 2009, 9:00 AM

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Updated: August 21, 2010, 3:12 AM

I have a confession to make: The decor at Mythos frightened me a little. I am used to Greek restaurants where the decor is an old photo of the Parthenon. In Mythos, the art is large, historic-looking sketches accenting the dark wood. It has been my experience that more upscale decor can hike the price of a meal a buck or two for each plate, but in Mythos, my fears were unfounded. The portions were large, the prices were good, and everything was delicious.

John and I met Ruth and Dan there around noon on a weekend and were seated immediately in a comfortable booth. We selected from the breakfast and the lunch sides of the menu.

We started with a bowl of corn chowder, which we considered slightly pricy at $4 right up until the moment the wide bowl was placed on the table. It was steaming hot, filled with corn and an assortment of supporting chopped vegetables, with a masterful, subtle spiciness.

The “famous open chicken souvlaki” ($8.99) deserves its reputation. Herbed chicken tenders were warm atop a bed of crisp, cool iceberg, with feta that boasted excellent savory saltiness. A small paper tub of super-dilled tzatziki provided a tangy dipping sauce. Two triangles of warm pita sat on the side.

A mushroom and cheese omelet ($6.49), with feta selected as the cheese, was served with home fries and toast. The Mythos cooks should offer lessons on how to properly prepare home fries. With plenty of tasty crust, they were neither dried out nor greasy.

The days are long gone when the 2-2-2 breakfast (two eggs, two pancakes with two breakfast meats or home fries) cost $2.22. In fact, this one cost $5.79, and was worth every penny. The cakes were substantial, and oddly enough, the top one was hard. We pointed this out to our server, who spirited it away and returned with a soft, fresh, steaming replacement.

A California breakfast burrito ($7.69) came with a side of splendid Greek yogurt dotted with berries. An oversized soft flour tortilla held a melange of two eggs, turkey, potatoes and bacon, with the Hollandaise on the side. The flavors melded together deliciously, but it was far too much to finish. We had hoped to sample the rice pudding, but it was simply impossible.

Mythos has one half-step at the door. It is open from 7 a. m. to 10 p. m. daily, but closes around 9 p. m. on Sundays.

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