Can you say kabocha? It’s high time for winter squash, and there’s a cornucopia of eye-catching varieties at grocery stores and farmers markets.

Winter squash come in many shapes and colors. No two look exactly alike. Some are shaped like a flat pumpkin with a knot on top. Others resemble a large, oddly shaped football with bluish-gray skin so hard you need to drop it on concrete to break it into pieces. Some, with names like sweet dumpling, buttercup and delicata, have thick plump ridges that hover around sunken stems.

And winter squash are winners in nutrition and taste.

“Nutritionally, squash is one of the best things you can eat,” says Richard Andres, owner of Tantre Farms in Chelsea, Mich., “and it has an excellent flavor.”

Squash is packed with antioxidants and vitamins — and has no fats.

At Tantre Farms, Andres grows a variety of squash, including popular butternut and acorn. But he also has sweet dumpling, delicata, three varieties of kabocha, hubbard, Naples long and carnival.

“Hubbard is one of the best there is in terms of flavor and texture,” says Andres. “It has a devoted following; people like to cook and freeze it to have for the holidays.”

Customers commonly ask about the texture of different kinds of squash and how they’re cooked, he says.

“People have been developing a literacy with squash.”

Squash can be prepared sweet or savory. Simply peel squash and cut it into small pieces and roast in a bit of oil with honey and paprika.

The delicata variety has an edible skin. You can cut it into discs and pan fry it in apple cider.

But be aware that cutting into squash, with the thick skin and solid flesh, can be tough, Andres warns.

“People seem to have a problem cutting it,” says Andres. “But for the really, really big hard squash like hubbard, drop it on concrete and it will shatter.”

For the smaller butternut and acorn varieties, Andres advises using a butcher knife to pierce it and then turn the knife downward so the squash splits. Store squash in a cool, dry place and, Andres says, they’ll keep a couple of months.

Slow Cooker Butternut Squash Soup

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 medium onion, chopped

1 ambercup, butternut or buttercup squash (about 2 pounds, peeled, cubed)

2 cups water

1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram leaves

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper

4 chicken bouillon cubes

1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, cubed

In a 10-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender.

In a 3-to 4-quart slow cooker, mix onion and remaining ingredients except cream cheese.

Cover; cook mixture on low-heat setting for 6 to 8 hours.

In blender or food processor, place one-third to one-half of mixture. Cover; blend on high speed until smooth. Repeat with remaining squash mixture. Return mixture to slow cooker. Stir in cream cheese. Cover; cook on low heat about 30 minutes or until cheese is melted. Stir with wire whisk until smooth. Makes 6 servings.

Cook’s note: You may stir in a 1-pound bag of frozen mixed vegetables (thawed and drained) with the cream cheese.

From www.bettycrocker.com.

230 calories (66 percent from fat ), 17 grams fat (11 grams sat. fat ), 15 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 910 mg sodium, 50 mg cholesterol, 2 grams fiber.

Sausage-Stuffed Sweet Dumpling Squash

2 sweet dumpling, acorn or favorite small squash

1 pound bulk pork sausage, sweet or hot

1 medium onion, peeled, chopped

1 pound mushrooms, sliced

2 cups bread cubes, optional

1/2 cup sweetened dried cranberries Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons maple syrup, optional

2 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces, optional

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Split squash through the stem and remove seeds and fibers. Place the squash halves, cut side down, in roasting pan. Add z-inch of water and bake about 30 minutes or until squash is tender.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, brown the pork sausage and drain off about half the fat. Add the onion and mushrooms and saute until soft. Add the bread cubes, if using, and cranberries. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

When the squash are done, divide filling among the four. If you have extra filling, you can put it in a side dish. Drizzle the maple syrup on top of each squash and dot with butter if desired. Return the stuffed squash to the oven and bake another 10 minutes, uncovered, to crisp the top.

370 calories (39 percent from fat), 16 grams fat (5 grams sat. fat), 49 grams carbohydrates, 14 grams protein, 363 mg sodium, 35 mg cholesterol, 6 grams fiber.

Spiced Ambercup Squash with Glazed Walnuts

1 ambercup squash or favorite squash, about 2 1/2 pounds

1/2 cup brown sugar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder

Sea salt to taste

For walnuts:

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped

Microwave the whole squash about 5 minutes to make it easier to peel and cut. Peel the squash and remove and discard the seeds. Cut the squash into 1z inch pieces.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil. Place the squash chunks on the baking sheet and bake about 20 minutes.

In a small saucepan, combine the brown sugar with the butter and five-spice powder. Cook over moderate heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is bubbling, about 4 minutes. Pour the mixture over the squash pieces and stir to coat. Season with salt. Bake for about 10 minutes, basting a few times, until the squash pieces are tender and glazed.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, water, corn syrup and butter and bring to a simmer. Cook over medium heat until a light caramel forms, about 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the baking soda and salt. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the walnuts. Quickly spread the toffee on the prepared baking sheet as thinly as possible. Cool completely and then break into pieces. Makes 6 servings.

Sprinkle the walnut toffee over the squash and serve.

Adapted from Food & Wine magazine, November 2009 issue.

342 calories (42 percent from fat), 16 grams fat (7 grams sat. fat), 52 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams protein, 114 mg sodium, 25 mg cholesterol, 1 gram fiber.