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Savoring the morning meal

Published:November 11, 2009, 7:00 AM

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Updated: August 21, 2010, 3:01 AM

Between the crisp, cool air and shortened days, autumn weekends seem to be made for sleeping late, followed by long, leisurely breakfasts that fill your home with the aromas of brewed coffee, fresh baked breads and sizzling sausages. Sadly, the reality is that most weekend breakfasts turn into harried, short-order affairs of bacon and eggs — or Pop-Tarts.

That’s when we should take a cue from bed and breakfast inns. They are, after all, the masters of leisurely morning meals, says Pamela Lanier, a family travel expert who turned her B&B expertise into a new cookbook, “Cinnamon Mornings and Savory Nights” (Lanier Publications/Random House, $19.95, 160 pages), featuring recipes from inns across North America.

The hallmark of breakfast at an inn, Lanier says, is that it’s something out of the ordinary: “It’s not just eggs and toast. The dish has other elements to it — whether it’s stuffed French toast or a veggie omelet — that make it cuisine.”

At the Wine Country Inn & Gardens in St. Helena, Calif., it takes the form of a layered cheese strata, filled with cheddar cheese and mushrooms. At New Hampshire’s Greenfield Inn, that translates into a homely but delicious version of do-ahead French toast, drenched in caramelized brown sugar and topped with berries or sauteed apples.

Of course, some might argue that if you want a delicious, no-fuss autumn breakfast, you could just go out. But that would mean denying yourself the ultimate indulgence on a chilly autumn morning: pajamas at the breakfast table.

Sourdough Egg Strata

12 slices lightly buttered extra-sourdough bread

4 cups grated cheddar cheese

1/2 medium onion, diced

1 cup thinly sliced mushrooms

10 eggs

2 heaping tablespoons spicy mustard

4 cups milk

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Cut bread into small cubes. Place half the bread cubes into a large, greased baking dish. Sprinkle with 2 cups cheese, onion and mushrooms. Add second layer of bread and top with remaining cheese. Beat eggs, milk, mustard, salt and pepper together. Pour this mixture evenly over the casserole. Cover with foil and refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 325. Bake for approximately 45-50 minutes or until top is golden and lightly crusted. Serves 8.

Quick Cinnamon Buns

1 3/4 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup cold butter, cut into small pieces

1 egg

1/3 to 1/2 cup milk

For filling:

1/4 cup butter, softened

1/2 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

For glaze:

1/2 cup powdered sugar

1 tablespoon butter, melted

1/4 teaspoon maple flavoring

Milk to thin

In a food processor, pulse together the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. Add cold butter and pulse until evenly distributed.

Whisk together the egg and x cup milk. Then, with motor running, pour the liquid into the flour mixture and pulse until just combined. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead lightly, adding just enough flour so the dough becomes smooth.

Roll the dough into a 12x12 inch square. Spread with softened butter, coat with brown sugar and sprinkle with cinnamon. Roll dough into a log and chill for 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350. Grease a muffin tin. Cut the cinnamon roll into 8 to 10 slices, about zinch zinch thick, and place cut-side down in the muffin tin. Bake 15 to 20 minutes. Let rest a few minutes, then remove hot muffins from pan.

Whisk the powdered sugar with melted butter, maple and just enough milk to reach a glaze consistency. Drizzle over warm muffins. Makes 8-10.

(Adapted from a Sherwood Forest B&B recipe.)

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