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The Waterline: Cool spot in the corner of an office building
Updated: August 21, 2010, 1:26 AM
The Waterline is a breakfast and lunch place that has opened inside the anonymous-looking office building officially known as Waterfront Village Center. It hunkers behind the parking lot at Erie Street and Lakefront Boulevard. The restaurant places a folding sign on that corner, which is where you’ll need to turn to get into the parking lot.
The restaurant is tucked into a corner space on the building’s first floor. It’s half upscale deli, half sit-down restaurant. Because it filled such a gaping hole, it gets crowded at lunchtime—especially in the nice weather. The 400 or 500 people who work in the office building are so thrilled with the joint, they storm it like starving hordes.
This cool destination is owned by the proprietor of Fables Cafe, in the downtown library. It offers a daily rotation of homemade soups (market priced), plus salads, sandwiches ($6 to $8 for most, $13 for a whole Muffalata). Signature handfuls include the Quattro Formaggio (grilled cheese and tomato, $6, add bacon and sweet onions, $6.75). Muffins, scones and desserts are homemade daily. Breakfast is served from 7 to 10 a. m.; you can get yogurt parfait or a fruit cup ($3.75) or a breakfast sandwich, pita or plate ($3 to $6).
To avoid the wait, call in your order. Then you can pick up, and still eat at an outdoor or semi-outdoor table. The “walls” of the building’s atriumlike hallway roll up to create open air space, where the restaurant places tables and chairs. There are also built-in benches and picnic tables.
Or, option No. 2, get in line, place your order, pay and you will receive a number. Then a server will bring your lunch to you. There is inside seating as well.
The roll supporting the Grilled Portabella sandwich (mushroom with spinach, roasted sweet onions, goat cheese and balsamic reduction, $7.50) was a bit bready, but it was tasty, and came with a really fresh, nicely dressed salad and a “scrumption” (in Waterline talk: cookie). You can opt for kettle chips rather than salad. The Slow Oven Roasted Turkey Club ($6.50) was moist and delicious, though its support system, a thinly sliced Italian bread, didn’t quite hold up to the weight of the sandwich’s innards. (Swap the breads on those two offerings and you’ll be good to go). The New Englandstyle clam chowder was creamy and full of the stuff it should be full of: clams, potatoes and even some vegetables.
The Waterline is open from 7 a. m. to 3 p. m. Monday through Friday, and 9 a. m. to 2 p. m. Saturday; closed Sundays.
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