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Johnny Vee's: Menu, soundtrack evoke musical memories

Published:August 4, 2009, 1:12 PM

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Updated: August 21, 2010, 12:54 AM

Johnny Vee’s, the new occupant of the corner spot in the strip mall that also houses Say Cheesecake, has a menu that evokes musical memories, from the Louis Prima panini (prosciutto, tomato, fresh mozzarella for $7.95) to the Anka specialty sandwich (salami, marinated eggplant, hot cherry peppers, mozzarella on French bread for $6.95). The soundtrack is eclectic, and the two young guys behind the counter looked like members of the Goo Goo Dolls.

Our first reaction to the menu was that the prices were pretty good and the combinations looked alluring. Even the simple (the Dean Martin: tuna, Swiss, tomato and red onion for $7.95) sounded like a good mix, and the marinated artichoke hearts in such concoctions as the Jerry Vale (with portabello mushrooms, roasted red peppers and provolone for $7.95) was appealing.

The place wasn’t too busy, so as soon as John placed his sandwich order at the counter, the guy who wasn’t ringing us up began slicing meats and frying bacon.

We started with a julienne salad ($6.50), which arrived crisp, cold and fresh, packed into one of those clear plastic clamshells. The base of mesclun greens was flavorful, with both maroon and dark green leaves. The ham, Swiss, provolone and turkey were separated into slices that were torn and placed on the salad. I prefer a true julienne of thin strips of meats and cheese. The tomatoes were the grape variety, the carrots hand-peeled and sliced. The balsamic vinaigrette was excellent.

We were about halfway through the salad when the sandwiches arrived in paper-lined red plastic baskets. The beef on 'weck (called, on the menu, “Johnny Vee’s Famous Roast Beef” and sold for an astounding $4.95) was utterly gorgeous. It looked like a billboard photo of a beef on 'weck, with a tall, glossy-topped roll sparkling with sizable salt crystals and crowded with caraway. And it tasted as good as it looked. The beef had been simmering in, as they say, “au jus,” until it was cooked through and tender, but still juicy. As a picky beef-on-'weck purist, I was happy. The horseradish was a bit on the weak side.

The Simon (named after Paul?) offered turkey, roast beef, artichoke hearts, provolone and house oil on French bread. “French bread” is often used rather loosely, and can mean anything from two measly slices of a baguette to a whole loaf. This was closer to the latter—a hunk of bread sliced like a sub roll, the size of two Kaiser rolls. The meats were fresh, the cheese melted and the artichoke hearts a nice touch.

Johnny Vee’s is open from 10 a. m. to 7 p. m. Monday through Friday and 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. Saturday, closed Sundays. It is handicapped-accessible.

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