We all know that there are all too few places in Western New York to eat and gaze at the water — maybe that will change some day soon. (Keep your fingers crossed.)



But while we’re all waiting, uncross those fingers for a moment and make a note of Dug’s Dive over there on Fuhrmann Boulevard in what many of us once called the Small Boat Harbor. You may need a GPS to get you there — a lot of construction and not a lot of signage — but persevere and you’ll reach this low-lying shack overlooking Lake Erie.



There are grassy paths, there’s plenty of outdoor seating and a surprisingly varied menu, too.



Dug’s Dive is one of the Curtin restaurants — the others are the Lake Effect Diner and the Steer Restaurant on Main Street in the city. Its name is a nod to a historic tavern on (or under) the old towpath where some of the more, er, unconventional members of the neighborhood would gather.



Supposedly this place was run by a former slave named William Douglas, and the ambience was unique since the canal would flood occasionally— and we are not exactly talking about Chanel No. 5.



None of this is true of the newer Dug’s, I hasten to say.



But it does have something for every degree of hunger. Sure, you can get your burger (the basic one is $6); and you can get your wings (10 for $8). You can even get a fried Haddock Sandwich (beer battered, $7). But you can also get a Lobster Dawg (rock lobster salad with bacon on a New England-style bun ($9) or a Grilled Bruschetta Chicken Sandwich with melted provolone and tomato basil topping ($6.50).



There’s even Chilean Fried Calamari appetizer with banana peppers and sweet Red Chilean Lime Sauce on the side ($8).



But the really interesting thing is that regular dinner entrees also show up at Dug’s. Like the Companion’s Southern Fried Chicken Plate ($14). A more than ample assortment of crisp poultry, french fries and an ear of corn. We ate this indoors in the rollicking barroom, but it might be even more satisfying if the weather cooperated and there was space on the porch.



My Cioppino ($22) was even more of a surprise. The tomato/basil-scented broth was loaded with chunks of haddock, shrimp, mussels, clams, calamari, scallops and potato. There were so many ingredients, in fact, that I ate it with a fork. Now if only the mussels had been open, I would have been totally happy— all the rest of the seafood was terrific, but those darn mussels remained as tight-lipped as an angry grade school teacher. I gave ’em a miss.



Fresh Haddock is the house specialty — you choose the preparation: Italian, involving tomato, basil broth and cheese; potato crusted; broiled with lemon butter; beer battered or Cajun grilled over charcoal. Any of these are served with slaw and corn for $14.



Other available entrees: N. Y. Strip with a side, slaw and corn ($24), Shrimp Scampi with parsley butter sauce over linguini ($15) and the real biggie, that Strip stuffed with crab and shrimp, topped with caramelized onions, mushrooms and blue cheese crumbles ($32).



Good thing there’s only ice cream for dessert.



DUG’S DIVE



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WHERE: 111 Fuhrmann Blvd. (821-9600, www.curtinrestaurants.com). Located right on Lake Erie with a great view of boats and water, this glorified hot dog stand at the NFTA Boat Harbor offers a surprisingly broad menu. Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.



FAVORITE DISH: Southern Fried Chicken



NEEDS WORK: Cioppino



PRICE RANGE: Entrees, $15 and up. Burgers from $6.



SERVICE: Very good. HOURS: 11 a. m. to midnight Monday through Thursday; to 2 a. m. on Friday through Sunday.



WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: One step to get inside. PARKING: In the lot. RATINGS: Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.