From its log-cabin construction to the large stone hearth inside the dining room, the Town & Country restaurant feels a bit like a hunting lodge—one with a really good cook.

The menu runs many pages, with appetizers, sandwiches (regular, hot, special and triple-decker), burgers and hots, side orders, breakfasts, dinners, seafood platters and pasta dishes, and I counted only three items that cost more than $10, the Cheap Eats cutoff. The 16-ounce Porterhouse is $12.99, the 12-ounce New York strip is $10.79, and the strip steak and fantail shrimp combination costs $14.49. Everything else is under $10, and most are much less.

Two that looked appealing were the Hots&Potatoes (two hot dogs with home fries and macaroni salad for $6.99) and the Ground Beef Special (ground beef patty with lettuce and tomato on a hard roll, served with fries, soup and macaroni salad for $6.75).

What eventually ended up on our table was a combination of breakfast and lunch, which is one of the real joys of a noon weekend meal at a place that serves breakfast all day.

We started with a cup ($1.99) of the Wisconsin cheese soup, which sounds heavy, but had a subtle cheese undertone and contained a generous portion of cubed ham, corn, peas, carrots, limas and green beans.

An order of three buttermilk pancakes ($4.29) was served less than a minute after the cakes were taken off the griddle at the exact peak of golden doneness. They were medium-sized, with a satisfyingly sweet taste and cakey texture. Three strips of bacon ($2.19) were thin but crisp and meaty in flavor.

I wrote down all the types of potato our server offered us, and she had at least baked, mashed, french fries, home fries, hash browns and mashed sweet potatoes. There may have even been more. We jumped at the mashed sweet variety, and they arrived forming a dome on top of a small dish, with an indented top for butter. They were an unusual, almost richly decadent, delight.

We also sampled a “Mr. Reuben” ($6.49), although nobody could explain how the sandwich got the “Mr.” It was nicely made, with melted Swiss, sauerkraut and only a slight amount of dripping from the dressing. The corned beef was flavorful, but the texture was problematic, with a few tough or chewy parts.

But the rice pudding made up for it. Sweet, creamy, homemade and served in a tall glass dish, it was very good.

Town & Country Family Restaurant is open from 7 a. m. to 9 p. m., seven days a week. It is handicapped-accessible.