“Specializing in Steak & Seafood,” the menu says. And that’s what I think you should keep in mind while dining at the venerable Friar’s Table, which has undergone a change in ownership during the last year. This is a big place, cozily decorated — several rooms, nice lighting, pictures of jolly old friars living it up here and there.



But concentrating on meat would be the best idea.



Friar’s makes Prime Rib available every day in various sizes, ranging from the comparatively abstemious 12- ounce Franciscan Cut at $25.95 to the 64-ounce Ultimate Cut at $75, meant for a crowd I’d hope — although the menu doesn’t say that.



We found that our 32- ounce Friar’s Cut was a gorgeous hunk of protein all right. Ordered rare and served rare, it was more than satisfying. We accompanied it with a mixed green salad on which a Grilled Portabello took pride of place. And some good French fries, also.



Other beefy hunks include four sizes of Filet ($28.95 through $49.95), Strip Steak (three sizes priced from $28.95 to $44.95) and 24- ounce Porterhouse ($46.95).



In other words, Beef Central.



We tried two first courses. Since this is the land of the Big Eaters, they were served more than generously. Nice tasting Crabcakes (two for $12.95) with plenty of seafood and not very much of anything else. Also, “Old World” French Onion Soup, served in a crock ($5.95 with the proper cap of cheese). But the broth tasted of base rather than slow simmering.



Way back in the day, when



a restaurant wanted to really strut its stuff, it put Veal Oscar on its menu. This gilded lily was garnished with seafood (usually crab), asparagus and Bearnaise Sauce. A card-carrying member of the Beef Wellington School of Excess, you might say. In the 21st century.



Friar’s Table added a twist of its own to this baroque creation, putting it on the specials menu in the form of Chicken Oscar for $28.95. Curiosity drove me to try it.



Not a good idea. The poultry was dry and tough, and even the fact that it was topped with lobster instead of crab didn’t help much since the lobster was even tougher than the chicken. The Bearnaise Sauce, bereft of all flavor of the tarragon it is supposed to have, was watery. Either the chef forgot the egg yolks and cream or it had broken.



I might have been happier if I’d ordered the grilled salmon (topped with black peppercorn butter, $28.95) Or the sea scallops or scampi. In addition, the menu lists all manner of Surf and Turf Combinations as well as Rack of Lamb. Char Broiled Center Cut Pork chops with spiced apples would have set me back $22.95.



And I also might have been happier if the service had been a little more focused. (There were plenty of servers hustling about, chatting with each other and the place was not that busy.)



True, the water came with a little bowl of lemon slices so we could add them at will and that was a nice touch. And the maitre d’ made our cocktails complimentary, so that was nice, too. (And, before you ask, I’m pretty sure we were not recognized.)



But the air of confusion continued throughout, spoiling what could have a been a relaxing meal. I will say that the dessert sent us out smiling.



Desserts came out on a tray. The Coconut Layer Cake was moist and sweet; a Macadamia Chocolate Torte was outstanding.



FRIAR’S TABLE



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WHERE: 301 Cleveland Drive, Cheektowaga (833-5554, www.thefriarstable.com). Large popular restaurant specializing in steak and seafood.



Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.



FAVORITE DISH: Prime Rib



NEEDS WORK: Chicken Oscar



PRICE RANGE:Dinner entrees from $24.95 include soup or salad and a side. Prime Rib runs $25.95 through $75.



SERVICE: Confused



HOURS: 4 to 10 p. m. Sunday through Thursday; 4 to 11 p. m. Friday and Saturday.



WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: A thin step.



PARKING: In the lot.



RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.