Mitchell’s Tavern is right next to the Sheridan Park Fire Company, and the tavern’s Web site (www.mitchellstavern.com) mentions that during World War II the business was loaned to the fire department, which operated it “to make ends meet.” Maybe it’s some lingering gratitude that led the Sheridan Park guys to recommend Mitchell’s when I asked a while ago.

On a recent Saturday afternoon, John and I met Ruth and Dan there for dinner. There are some taverns that do a good business in the evening and smell like last night’s beer when you arrive the next day for a meal—we noticed right away that Mitchell’s is not one of them.

Our fellow diners recommended the wings, so we started with a single order ($5.75), and for a change got the barbecued variety. The barbecue sauce was extra thick and delicious. The wings were neither enormous nor skimpy. The first one I had was too dry, but the others were juicy and hot.

We also demolished a plate of clam strips ($4.75). They were hot, not too greasy and plentiful.

The menu offered several retro meal choices, and on a cool, damp day, we found ourselves gravitating toward the comfort food.

A hot meatloaf sandwich was served between two slices of fresh white bread liberally doused with gravy. There was plenty of meatloaf between the slices, and it had a nice texture, although we found the taste to be a little on the bland side.

A Black Angus burger was so reasonable ($4.25) that we didn’t mind adding a topping of bacon for 75 cents. Served on a large, soft roll, the burger was good. It was very similar to the roast beef sandwich ($5.25), which was a roll filled with a liberal helping of tender, thinly sliced beef. The roast beef, like the meatloaf, was homemade.

The fish fry, at $8.50, the most expensive menu item, was well worth it. The large piece of white fish, covered in the familiar shiny batter, was laid on top of a whole plate full of sides, making it impossible to dig in until major rearrangement was done. The fries were the crinkle-cut retro variety, and the cold sides were unexceptional.

The hit of the table was a plate of sweet potato fries ($3.25). They were matchstick-cut, which provides the maximum amount of crispness per fry. Served with tiny plastic dipping dishes of melted butter and honey, they were a huge hit, even among those who might not be enthusiastic vegetable-eaters.

The kitchen at Mitchell’s is open from 9 a. m. to 11 p. m. daily except for Sunday, when it is closed. It is handicapped-accessible.