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Tuesday, November 10, 2009

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From left, Maryanne Hejna, Kevin Daughrity and Kelly Ostendorf relax with drinks in the main room at Just Vino’s aluminum bar.
Photos by Bill Wippert/Buffalo News

“The rustic brick and fashionable furniture put us at ease.”

GRAPE ESCAPE

Just Vino is a comfortable fit for wine enthusiasts and novices

News Staff Reporter

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<i></i><br /> Just Vino offers over 80 wines and rotates 20 new wines each month.<i></i><br />

As a Sunday night rainstorm rolled in, we avoided the next sheet of rain by ducking into Just Vino, in the old Granite Works building at the corner of Virginia and Main.

Even though it was Sunday night, owner Jeff Borsuk was behind the bar with his young help Steve, and both were happy to make us feel more than sheltered from the wet conditions. Jeff entertained patrons from Ontario who had apparently taken to the wine bar so well that they were already considered regulars.

After asking about our tastes, Steve announced what was easily the deal of the night. Any bottles of wine that were opened on Friday or Saturday night were marked with a green dot, which meant they were half price. Just Vino has a fresh-wine policy at the start of each week, so Sunday actually is a prime night to stop in.

The rustic brick and fashionable furniture put us at ease, while the illuminated grapes and vine lighting above the bar were a nice touch. The aluminum bar gave the area a unique copper feel and a nice departure from the more-common treated wood.

But the most unmistakable and unavoidable furnishing was what looked like a massive, faux animal part hanging from the left corner above Just Vino’s modest “kitchen” (basically a cutting board and a handful of knives). Jeff described what was actually a Spanish pig as the bar’s oversized conversation starter, and while a similar meat can be found in the Spanish Plate (Jamon, Chorizo sausage, olives, Manchego and European cheeses, $10), customers need not worry about the display finding its way into dishes.

Of course, there aren’t many dishes outside the typical cheese and salami combos, or the Brie and Fruit Plate, which we found delicious for $4.50. But that’s a designed move. Borsuk mentioned that while the bar and tables seat 26, he prefers more intimate interaction with customers that smaller crowds allow for.

And customers will no doubt appreciate the generous service of Borsuk and his help. Steve poured us each a half glass of green-dot Pallister Estate (New Zealand) Pinot Gris, on the house until we found something we liked.

“We have 80 wines, and we let you try 79 until we cut you off,” Borsuk said.

We opted for the red house wine, and even then Borsuk gave us a couple choices. He informed us the only way of truly choosing was to try both kinds, so we decided on Charles Smith Velvet Devil Merlot ($9 per glass when not the house special, which was half off) over Ledgewood Creek (Calif.) Syrah. The bar even offers higher-end beers, from Hoegaarden ($4) to local favorite Flying Bison Aviator Red for a cheap $3.50. And Borsuk is available to entertain with information about wine, weather or the surrounding neighborhood while allowing couples the space needed for an intimate after-dinner drink.

The appropriately named Just Vino offers a Friday night happy hour that starts at 3 p. m. or just a quiet respite from a Sunday night thunderstorm. Borsuk even offered an umbrella (left behind by a previous customer) to departing patrons —a gesture that comes as no surprise to those who become quickly loyal because of more than just the wine.

Just Vino

846 Main St.

Scene:People catching an after-dinner drink or enjoying any number of 80 wines.

Dress:Semi-formal, mostly business casual.

Music:You may hear some easy listening tunes via the sound system.

cspecht@buffnews.com


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