Bravo Cafe: Getting bigger and busier
We first reviewed Bravo Cafe when it was in teeny quarters farther up Seneca Street next to a plumber’s shop. That was way back in 2004. What a change: It’s bigger, and it’s busier.
Now the place occupies a lot of its own, functioning as both a cafe and banquet house. Prices are fair, portions are almost embarrassingly large, and it’s obviously very popular. Even on a dull Tuesday night, all the tables were full, creating a noisy, good-natured ambience.
Everyone was there, from a 12-person table of youngish adults having a wonderful time and yelling at the top of their lungs, to families with young kids. In other words, this is not a place for serious conversation; it’s a place to stoke up and have a good time.
As the restaurant and the menu extended, some of its individuality did also — maybe because they’re feeding multitudes now. I looked in vain for the homemade potato chips that I loved so much on our first visit. And I couldn’t even find the Italian pierogi served back in the day. (The filling was a mixture of sausage, pepper and onions.)
But we hardly went away hungry, and we loved our appetizers. Artichoke fritters ($6.99) were lightly fried until they were just golden and served with a tangy sour cream/gorgonzola sauce. Coconut shrimp ($6.59) were just sweet enough and just crunchy enough. They were accompanied by a fruity marmalade sauce.
And the soup of the evening, summer vegetable, was served piping hot. It featured a thickish tomato base with a plentiful scattering of veggies. Basil was the dominant seasoning. It had an unusual, almost homemade taste.
Having started on a high note, the main entrees were slightly disappointing. Best by far was a special barbecue mixed grill for $15.99, a falling-off-the-plate assortment of favorites like the tasty half rack of baby back ribs and a thick, slightly dry chicken breast and slaw.
I went for the peppered steak and goat cheese pasta ($11.99). That’s a rich combination of food that was only slightly balanced by the sauteed tomatoes, spinach and red pepper that the menu advertised. The meat, slightly bland, was tough; the cheese, served in chunks rather than mixed in, didn’t help.
Guests went the more traditional Italian route. Pasta Bolognese ($9.99) was pleasant, but not the kind of thing you dream about; ditto the chicken parmigiana.
Maybe we ordered unwisely. Certainly there are other temptations on the menu. A selection of sandwiches under the heading “Buffalo Favorites” lists something called “The Erie County Fair” ($6.29), which is our old friend Italian sausage, peppers and onions on a toasted hoagie roll. “The Kimmel” includes tomato, red onion and provolone.
Then there’s another heading, “Gourmet Sandwiches,” which includes the likes of “The Sicilian” with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella and artichoke hearts on focaccia with olive spread for $7.59. Diners can find paninis, of course — is there any place in Western New York where you can’t find paninis? And there’s a chipotle strip steak with gorgonzola for $16.99.
But before ordering from the printed menu, I’d suggest looking at the separate specials list. The night we were there, that list featured firecracker shrimp tossed in chipotle cream sauce with pasta ($14.99) and pan-roasted salmon with a cucumber, tomato dill sauce for $14.99.•
BRAVO CAFE
Two and a half stars
WHERE: 5781 Seneca St., Elma (677-4003 www.bravocafeandcatering.com).
Bustling, somewhat noisy family restaurant that specializes in big servings.
Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.
FAVORITE DISH: Artichoke fritters
NEEDS WORK: Peppered steak and goat cheese pasta
PRICE RANGE:Special dinners including soup and/or salad from about $11. Early bird dinners from 3 to 5 p. m. Monday through Friday feature smaller portions of menu items.
SERVICE: Very good. HOURS: 11 a. m. to 9 p. m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a. m. to 10 p. m. Friday and Saturday.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PARKING: Parking lot in front.
RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.
