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The lure of the Pizza Glen’s famous “square” pizza had us heading out on a snowy evening with the family crew.

For as long as I remember, the Pizza Glen has occupied a location a little less than a mile before Kissing Bridge heading out Route 240. Ironically, this was my first visit.

In April, the Glen celebrates 34 years of feeding hungry skiers, snowboarders and tubers heading to and from the hills.

The unique building was once a mill located along a railroad line. At one time, diners crossed tracks to get to the Glen.

Circa 1980 décor adds to the charm. Spotted: a “Kelly’s Heroes” poster of Bills greats wearing army gear; a “Battle of Buffalo” poster featuring Sugar Ray Leonard vs. Roger Stafford (1982) and a beer poster with a Farrah Fawcett look-alike saying, “You, me and an O.V.”

There is a full bar with happy hour specials and decent tap beers. Plus, video games, a jukebox and pool table.

Six of us jammed into a booth and set out to figure our order, pizza at the top of the list.

The menu is basic. Small subs range from $4.25-$5.50, large $7.25-$8.50. A third-pound burger runs $5, $5.50 with cheese. A grilled chicken sandwich hits $5, a hot dog is $1.75. Wraps like a Chicken Ranch start at $4.50, with the Antipasto Wrap topping it at $6. A chef salad runs $4, an antipasto is $9. Tacos are $4 (beef) and $4.50 (chicken). Burritos are a quarter more. Side orders like fries, onion rings and battered mushrooms range from $4 to $5. A pitcher of pop is $5.50.

Daily specials include a half party tray pizza (one topping) and double order of wings for $26.50 or a small pizza (one topping) and single order of wings $17.50.

In the end, we opted for two half party tray specials, and in the interest of research, a beef burrito ($4.25) and a small sausage sub ($4.75). Wings were ordered medium and “everything,” which includes a little of every sauce – barbecue, spicy barbecue, Cajun, garlic butter, garlic Parmesan, sweet and tangy barbecue, hot garlic Parmesan, and the usual hot sauces. Why not?

We loved the look of the pizza when it hit the table. It’s really a rectangle (cut into squares) and was baked in a sheet pan that could have come from anyone’s home. Battered, bent and almost black (the kind you are remiss to toss), the Glen’s pans appear to have fed several generations.

How to describe the crust? A cross between thin and regular, perhaps? Dig in immediately to savor the almost crackerlike crunch (which goes away as the pizza sits). Brother-in-law aims for this crust at home but can never quite master it.

Pizza No. 1 with pepperoni, mushrooms and green olives was loaded with a good amount of melted cheese, but thankfully not drowning in sauce and just enough olives to keep it salty, but not overly so.

White Pizza No. 2 had plenty of cheese, onions, diced fresh tomatoes and lots of garlic. A cheesy, loaded garlic toast would be an apt description.

Both pizzas were fantastic. What we noticed most was the pizzas lacked the “Why did I eat that extra piece?” feeling, perhaps due to the thinner crust. Oh, yes, one can keep on eating this battered pan pie. And we did, with plenty of leftovers to take home.

The wings were so-so. Meaty, the mediums could have been a little hotter and saucier. The “everything” wings were really tasty with all those flavors. We could really taste the strange combination of sauces, and recommend them over the regular style.

The burrito was decent, filled with beef, beans, cheese and sour cream. The sausage sub had a good amount of meat, lettuce, onions and tomatoes. Both items were good, but not memorable. That’s why the pizza is the star at the Glen.

As we headed out the door, we imagined the old pans gearing up to feed the troupe of young red-cheeked-snowpant-bibbed skiers piling in with their parents. Undoubtedly, the next generation of regular Pizza Glen customers.

The Pizza Glen

Where: Route 240, Glenwood (941-9333, www.thepizzaglen.com)

Hours: Open daily 11 to “about 10 p.m.”

Payment: Credit cards accepted.

Three and a half pennies.