Infusion Pub & Bistro: Willing to take a chance ... or two
New restaurant infuses varied, interesting menu
Infusion Pub & Bistro is a large space divided into two parts. The section to the left is a pub, and it’s informally furnished with a pub (burger) type menu. But this review will be written about the other portion of this big old building — two separate dining rooms featuring an upscale, contemporary menu.
And it’s an interesting menu at that. Many of the items listed represent quite a departure from the Western New York norm. For instance, take the tapas plate that four of us shared ($16). Anything is considered tapas these days, granted, but these choices were hardly run of the mill. There were seedless grapes, encrusted with rich goat cheese and toasted almonds. And there were figs marinated in port wine (terrific) as well as chunks of Spanish Manchego cheese. We also tried something called duck ham ($12) — smoked poultry, really. It was mildly flavored but served up nicely with a wine reduction and strawberries and grilled pear slices. Very complementary flavors indeed.
Kajiki was an evening special: blue marlin with olive/ preserved lemon/cauliflower couscous and a gentle Moroccan herb sauce ($24). This was good food, though a purist might say that the fish was slightly overcooked. I like the play of flavors, with the citric bite of the lemon providing the top note here.
Even better food came off the regular menu. There were seared scallops with curry-whipped potatoes, carrots and the tiniest tips of the freshest asparagus you ever did see ($28). Everything had such full flavor and was so well-balanced. It was a well-polished plate.
Well-polished plate, hmmm? That brings me to a pivotal point. Three of the plates were admittedly clean, with the fourth person still eating, when the monsoon came.
Whoosh! Off went the three finished dishes! Off went all the water glasses! Off went the unused forks and knives! Swooped onto a clearing tray to go where? To a kitchen full of dishwashers, waiting impatiently for something to occupy themselves? Meanwhile, our fourth diner, with a pained smile, kept on trying to enjoy her food.
Now pre-emptive table clearing, I know, has become an epidemic in these parts, but even allowing for the youth of the staff, this was carried to extremes. (Hint: The reason most people go out to eat in upscale restaurants is to relax and enjoy the meal.)
Let’s go on to more pleasant matters. Here are some other items on the Infusion menu that sounded intriguing; some are specials, and they cut across many ethnic lines: feta and artichoke salad with flat bread, an appetizer for $9; lobster inside-out roll with crab claw meat, wasabi butter, cucumber and ginger sesame seeds ($14); volcano inside-out roll with crab claw meat, harissa, figs, cream cheese ($14); and five-spiced Tilapia entree with citrus ponzu sauce and soba noodles ($24).
There’s more ordinary stuff, too, but even the more expected dishes are surprisingly accompanied. For example: a spice-rubbed pork chop with pineapple cherry chutney, angel hair pasta with pesto and sauteed squash ($22); and crab and portobello ravioli with asparagus and lobster sauce ($26).
So, congratulations to the management for taking a chance or two. Now let’s hope they teach the clearers to relax.•
INFUSION
★★★*
WHERE: 726 Main St., East Aurora (655-2155). The pub section of this large new dining place serves informal bar food; the restaurant is much more upscale. American Express, MasterCard, Visa.
FAVORITE DISH: Seared scallops with curry-whipped potatoes
NEEDS WORK: Food is of good quality.
PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees from $14, although most are $20 and up.
SERVICE: Needs work.
HOURS: Lunch and dinner from Wednesday through Sunday.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes.
PARKING: Parking lot in the rear.
RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.
