If you hit a winner, stick with it. A perfect example might be the new Wasabi that opened last spring in the Southtowns — a shrewd move because this is an area of Western New York where Japanese eating places are not exactly thick upon the ground.

The location is also adjacent to the McKinley Mall. Granted it can be a little confusing to actually find the entrance to this new place (hint: take the Pier One driveway). Still, this southern version has boasted customers aplenty since its opening day.

Like its Williamsville sister, also located in a shopping plaza, Wasabi III is a stunning restaurant. Contemporary decor with rich-looking woods; there are comfortable booths and a sushi bar. (The city location on Elmwood Avenue is tiny and just a tad scruffy, which hardly detracts from its appeal.)

The menu at all of the restaurants is extensive with many special sushi rolls in evidence, the price ranging upward from about $4.50 to $12 for six or eight. My favorite is the Wasabi Lobster Roll ($11.95), a composite of many of the good things in life — lobster, of course, and caviar and avocado and mango. But then the Scorpion Roll is far from shabby — broiled eel and avocado atop shrimp tempura ($10.50). And what about the Snow White Roll (crab, asparagus and white tuna, $10.95)? Oh, what the heck — you could probably just close your eyes and point.

We began our recent meal with soup, however. Seafood Hot & Sour Soup ($4.95) served in an elegant lacquer bowl not only featured the expected shrimp and tofu, it boasted scallops, as well. And the miso broth it was based on, quite different from the ordinary miso soup which we found to be very light in flavor, had real presence. Rich and hearty, very spicy, very sour and very good.

We decided to try a kitchen entree and quite a selection was available, including various tempuras, grilled teriyaki salmon or shrimp, even grilled Chilean Sea Bass ($15.95) served either with teriyaki sauce or spicy black bean sauce. There are marinated beef ribs and Unagi Don (broiled eel over rice, $15.95). We, however, opted for the Torikatsu, a breaded chicken cutlet, expertly breaded and fried to be ultra crisp and served along perfect tasty stir fried veggies. The price for this was $10.95 with miso soup or salad, making it an excellent budget meal.

We also went the uncooked (or least chilled) route, selecting the Sushi and Sashimi Combination Plate ($21.95), a vast offering — four pieces of sushi, 10 pieces of sashimi (various varieties of tuna, including yellow tail) and a crunchy salmon roll. Here, too, the options are many — so many combinations are offered from the sushi bar.

The biggest deal seems to be something called the Titanic combination ($49.95)-, and who would argue?

This assortment is blessed with 14 (count ’em!) pieces of sushi, 12 sashimi, a Rainbow Roll (raw fish atop a California roll) and a Super Dynamite Roll (tempura fried with eel, fish, crabstick, asparagus, cheese and spicy sauce).

Like we said — just close your eyes and point at the menu, then speak up. You’ll probably do fine.

WASABI

Three and a half stas

WHERE: 3701 McKinley Parkway, Hamburg. (828-1881, www.wasabius.com). The third version of this successful Japanese restaurant — the others are in Williamsville and on Elmwood Avenue — features the same menu and handsome decor. Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Lobster Roll

NEEDS WORK: Food is of good quality.

PRICE RANGE:Sushi and sashimi items start at $9.95. Kitchen entrees from $9.50.

SERVICE: Very efficient

HOURS: 11 a. m. to 10 p. m. Monday through Thursday; to 10:30 p. m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 10 p. m. Sunday.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: In the lot