Fiddle Heads, right smack on the corner of Allen and Franklin streets, has been serving innovative contemporary cuisine for many years and keeps on a-rolling. Sleek in decor with large storefront windows, it offers a prime seat for watching the to-ing and fro-ing on a street where something always seems be going on.

In many ways, it is the ultimate urban restaurant — the menu is varied; the take on food innovative yet carefully restrained. This is not one of those restaurants, in other words, where trendy ingredients are used just to take up room on the menu. Or, I suppose, to elevate the check.

Careful consideration goes into designing these dishes. And it shows.

Case in point: An appetizer we ordered — Espresso Barbecue Chicken and Cheddar Cheese Crisp ($10), which turned out to resemble nothing so much as a thin-crusted pizza. (Although this particular pizza shell was loaded with cheese.) The chicken topping was moderately spicy and had been cooked with, yes, dark intense coffee. It would take someone with an amazing palate to distinguish the taste of the coffee as such, however. Think subtle. The real role the espresso played was adding a deep duskiness to the poultry — and a distinctive deliciousness, as well.

We enjoyed our other appetizer, also. Christened “Tapas Plate” ($9), it was a wide selection of spreads including Olive Artichoke Tapenade, spicy Hummus and Tomato Parsley Pesto (we liked this one best). On the side, for spreading purposes, was some crisp flatbread. And speaking of bread, let me not get any further into this review without mentioning the house-baked bread that comes out with your dinner. There’s a choice of rye, white or dill scones — all of which are great. And the olive oil dip with celery seed, is pretty neat, too.

On to entrees. I enjoyed my Pan Seared Duck Breast ($25) even though I might have enjoyed it even more if it hadn’t been cooked so long. (It was supposed to be medium rare but went a little past that.) The duck was served with a delicious Cherry Sauce (ever so slightly too sweet) and Black Pepper Polenta, too.

The Companion chose an evening special. Lobster Risotto with artichokes, roasted red pepper and sharp provolone ($28) — not what you’d call a timid combination of ingredients but oh so soothing in a very rich way. And for dessert, known to the management, we were presented with a dessert tray all our own on which all manner of housemade goodies was on display.

Which did we prefer? The Flourless Chocolate Cake? Fine but not unusual. Cappuccino Cheesecake? A nice light twist on another old standard. Exceptional Peanut Butter Truffle Pie? A Coconut Tart topped with a Dark Chocolate Sorbet that was so memorable, it sent me hunting up my own ice cream machine the very next day.

No, the honor has to go to the Twinkie Trifle. Layers of fresh berries, whipped cream and everyone’s favorite junk dessert. It looked like a culinary version of the American flag.

Other items on the regular menu, worth pursuing: an appetizer stone oven pizette made from Gorgonzola, figs and candied onions ($10); an entree of Bacon Wrapped Jumbo Shrimp Sweet Corn Casserole and Roast Tomato Sauce ($23); and Almond Crusted Boneless Chicken Breast with Scallion Rice and Spicy Raspberry Ginger Sauce ($18).

Even the grilled New York Strip ($26) has a little twist to it. It’s served with Garlic Thyme Roast Potatoes, Tomato Corn Salsa and Wasabi Cream.

FIDDLE HEADS

Three and a half stars

WHERE: 62 Allen St. (883-4166). A long-standing restaurant of quality on the edge of the Theater District. Sleek in decor. The food boasts an innovative and contemporary edge.

Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Espresso Barbecue Chicken and Cheddar Cheese Crisp.

NEEDS WORK: Food is of good quality.

PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees from $18 up include vegetables.

SERVICE: Very good.

HOURS: 5 to 10 p. m. Tuesday through Saturday

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: On the street

RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.