FORT ERIE, Ont. — Ming Teh may rest on Canadian soil, but it’s a Western New York institution nonetheless. This smallish Chinese restaurant on the banks of the rapid Niagara offers a wide selection of dishes from many regions of China. The place is decorated with handsome art work created by the former owner, a good friend. (Ming Teh changed hands a few years ago but has remained in the family.)

It’s well populated with customers from both sides of the river. As in all Chinese restaurants and especially at Ming Teh (see below), the more diners there are, the more adventure, so gather up your friends (and your customs documentation).

A group of us began our meal with three different soups the other evening — the classic Hot & Sour with a good hot zing ($3.25); my own particular favorite, a piquant Pickled Cabbage with Shredded Pork ($3.50), and Vegetarian Moo Shu Soup ($3.50), a silky mix of spinach, tofu and bean curd.

Then came the Fried Dumplings (6 for $7.80) and a letdown, too. The dumpling wrappings were so thick and so hard that even the delicious pork filling could not compensate.

But we went a little crazy with the entrees and had fun. The best one, everyone agreed, was the Deep Fried Fish with Sweet & Sour Plum Sauce ($14.95), simply terrific. Everything worked here. The fish was crisp and the sauce so multilayered with flavors that every bite provided a surprise.

Another favorite and new on the menu, Stir Fried Chicken with Assorted Vegetables in Ginger and Hot Sauce ($16.95), was deceptive so it got mixed reviews. It tasted bland at first but it wasn’t long before that sneaky little heat snuck up the back of our throats. The dish is not marked with an asterisk for nothing. Those of us who love spicy food (that would include yours truly and the Companion) were happy with this entree. The others just grabbed for the Kleenex.

Other choices were more standard. Moo Shu Chicken rolled in paper-thin pancakes ($13.95) for us at the table were satisfying with a good strong mushroom taste. Lemon Chicken ($13.95) was given a substantial citric tang because fresh lemon juice was used. (That fresh juice saved it.) Chicken and Broccoli ($13.95) was pleasant and unthreatening.

And there was so much of the menu that could be explored. If you give 48 hours notice, for instance, you can order Peking Duck ($38) and it’s pretty much the real deal because it’s prepared in a traditional oven with incredibly crisp skin and the bird is air dried.

Other winners include spicy Tangerine Beef with Garlic ($13.95) which I often order and Double Cooked Pork ($13.50) steamed and then sauteed with green onions, green pepper and bamboo shoots. Then the cook stirs in a little hot Szechuan bean paste into the pork just to see if you’re paying attention.

I’m also very fond of Stir Fried Spinach with Almonds and Cashews ($12.50) and the Stir Fried Green Beans ($12.50). A friend recommends the Lamb and Cucumber ($21.25) which I’ve never tried so that may well be the next thing I order.

So here’s my advice to you: No other Chinese restaurant in the area offers such a culinary choice of dishes, so take advantage of that. Order something you’ve never tried with an ingredient or two you usually like. If you’re timid or afraid you’ll go away hungry, also order a familiar favorite for insurance.

I’m not a betting woman, but I’m willing to go out on a limb in this case. Five dollars Canadian will get you $5 American that it’s gonna be the new choice that makes you most happy.

MING TEH

Three and a half stars

WHERE: 126 Niagara Blvd., Fort Erie, Ont. (905-871-7971; (www.mingteh.dinnerschoice.com). A long-established Chinese restaurant with a huge menu of standard and not-so-standard Chinese dishes. Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Deep Fried Fish with Sweet and Sour Plum Sauce

NEEDS WORK: Fried Dumplings

PRICE RANGE: Entrees from about $12 up (Canadian)

SERVICE: Very good HOURS: 11 a. m. to 10 p. m. Tuesday through Sunday; 5 to 10 p. m. Monday.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: One large step

PARKING: Street or rear lot.