Brava as well as bravo. The San Marco Ristorante, owned by Nancy and Frank Grimaldi, has had a long, successful history in Western New York, first opening on Elmwood Avenue in Kenmore way back in 1984. It was one of the first area restaurants to serve such dishes as bruschetta and risotto. (We take these things so much for granted now and they are so widespread that it’s incredible to realize that about 20 years ago, they represented culinary adventures to many local diners.)

By the time the restaurant moved to its current home in Snyder, it was widely regarded as one of the best Italian dining rooms in the Buffalo area. And yes, it’s still regarded that way after all these years.

Take that bruschetta, for instance. Practically every restaurant around here now serves it and most of the time it’s a yawn. But as we munched on the bruschetta (we’re known to the Grimaldis and they sent some over to us while we looked over the menu), we kept asking ourselves why San Marco’s version was so much better. Because it is.

It all has to do with attention to detail, I’d wager — the utter freshness of the tomatoes and olive oil is vital because you can’t fudge with such simple ingredients. Not to mention the crisp toast the mixture rested on. (Oddly, the bread that accompanied the meal didn’t quite reach the same benchmark. It was piping fresh, but much too soft.)

In contrast, one of our appetizers was really elaborate. The evening special, mild wild boar sausage, was served over a fine porcini risotto and rested on just the right amount of Barolo sauce ($10). A hint of juniper added a perfect teasing complement — there was even a little white truffle to add richness. Another app is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes — ravioli stuffed with lobster and shrimp and served in delicate cream sauce. Both fine, if filling ways, to begin a good meal.

One of our entrees was also on special that evening and not for the dainty of appetite, be warned. A mixed grill — venison, quail and baby lamb rack ($31) — was also served in Barolo sauce. Every one of the meats was so perfectly cooked and juicy that it was hard to choose which was best. And, from the printed menu, the classic Saltimbocca alla Romana ($23) was almost as enjoyable, though very gentle in flavor. (I’ll admit I would have liked more sage.) The veal scallops were well adorned with prosciutto, however, and that picked the dish up a bit. Nicely grilled vegetable accompanied both entrees.

San Marco’s favorite trick is to take a popular standard and add a little individual twist to it. As in the Pollo Milanese ($17) with the chicken medallions cooked scampi-style with lemon caper sauce. Or the strip steak, Controfiletto alla Savoia ($16), brushed with olive oil and rosemary and served with cracked black pepper and gorgonzola sauce. Grilled salmon ($21) appears in a creamy saffron sauce.

Even the pastas show originality. Penne all’Arrabiata is spicy, dressed up with crumbled sausage as well as cracked pepper ($15); Linguine is served with wine lemon sauce with grilled shrimp, scallops, squid and mussels ($21) and, on the Antipasti list, you can find grilled polenta with wild mushrooms served on greens ($9).

We can’t talk about San Marco, though, without discussing its wine list. There’s even a small room devoted to wine (all Italian, need we say, except for a couple of California interlopers). The list is extensive, starting at around $30 for a bottle and rising up to the super Tuscans at $250. (Wines by the glass are $7 but nowhere near as much fun.)

SAN MARCO

4 stars, out of four

WHERE: 2082 Kensington Ave., Snyder (839-5876; www.sanmarcobuffalo.com). Long noted as one of the best upscale Italian restaurants in the area. Fine food; a dignified setting; remarkable wine list and a warm welcome. Credit Cards: American Express, Mastercard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Wild Boar Sausage over Risotto (evening special)

NEEDS WORK: Food is of excellent quality. PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees from $17 include vegetable.

SERVICE: Excellent

HOURS: 5:30 to 10 p. m. Tuesday through Sunday

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: In the lot