We had planned to eat at the Left Bank bar when we visited on a stormy Monday evening — but one step in the door and we quickly knew that was impossible. The separate barroom in this neatly restored historic building may be comfortable and cozy, but it was also wall-to-wall people and happy noise.

So it was a quick shift to the tiered dining room, respectably full for so early in the week. The Left Bank is one of the most popular places in this area every day — and you can forget weekends entirely unless you reserve well ahead.

LEFT BANK

Three and a half stars (Out of four)

WHERE: 511 Rhode Island St. (882-3509) Enormously popular bar/restaurant in a handsomely restored building offers imaginative food with contemporary touches.

Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Fried Oysters with Tomato/Corn/Jalapeno Salsa

NEEDS WORK: Grouper with Beurre Blanc

PRICE RANGE: Small plates from about $9. Dinner entrees in the high teens.

SERVICE: Excellent

HOURS: Dinner 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday; 5 to 10 p.m. Monday; 5 to 11 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday; 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Sunday Brunch, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: Lot next door

The place is very attractive with its high brick walls and huge colorful paintings. And then there’s the lighting. I’ve come to the conclusion that one of the most — if not the most — important aspects of restaurant decor is the lighting. It has to be soft enough to be romantic and flattering but not so dim you fear a quick trip to the emergency room. The Left Bank scores well.

It scores well with its menu, too, because there’s something here for anyone. Not so hungry? There’s the “Premiere Plat” section of the menu — salads and soups mostly. Or the “Bourgeois Fare” section, which offers a little heavier stuff like Fondue for Two made from warm gorgonzola with beef, focaccia, portobello fries and asparagus to dip ($14). Or the Tilapia Stack ($11) layered between crisp wontons with sauteed bok choy, bean sprouts and the like.

The “Peasant Fare” section comes next. Pretty much the same thing, I guess. (To tell the truth, I’m not sure what defines peasant vis a vis bourgeois, at least not on this menu.) But “Peasant” is where you find most of the pastas and dishes like Red Beans & Rice ($12). There’s pizza in the “Foccacia” section and the “Grill & Pasta” corner offers full entrees. The kitchen does not lack for imagination — nor the skills to back it up.

We tried Roast Red Pepper Soup with Crabmeat ($6) — a beautiful bright red, moderately spicy beginning to the evening. That was followed by my favorite, Fried Oysters with Tomato/Corn and Jalapeno Salsa, sitting on Creole Remoulade ($9).

Tender oysters inside a crisp coating with a nice little jolt from the salsa and the sauce to make things interesting. Oh boy.

But sometimes starting out so strongly breeds disappointment. The evening entree special, Grouper in Beurre Blanc ($27) was certainly pleasant — especially served as it was with shrimp and silken sauce. Still, it was just a shade short of wonderful, because the fish was dry. Slightly overcooked, perhaps? (This seems to be a common failing lately in many of the restaurants we’ve visited. What’s going on?) Oh yes, almost forgot to mention — Caesar Salad side was fine.

And so was the Companion’s selection. Prosciutto-wrapped Jumbo Prawns served over creamy polenta with a warm grape tomato vinaigrette ($11), for instance.

Or the Portobello with Artichoke Stuffing and port wine green peppercorn sauce ($9). Or the Ahi Tuna Tartare with chili aioli, cilantro and ginger, nori, wontons and sesame-soy drizzle ($14). I must admit I’m most tempted by the Bourgeois part of the menu. All of the above are listed there.

But then there’s Carrot Papardelle tossed with Lobster, Shrimp and Crabmeat and julienne vegetables ($22). Or Penne with grilled steak au poivre with a Marsala sauce and wild mushrooms, roasted red onion, sweet peppers and asiago ($19).

Know this: Whatever you choose, you’ll worry, because something else on the menu will sound just as tempting.

So when you’re ordering — take your time.