Newly moved from University Plaza, Bobby McGee’s is larger than it used to be and puts more emphasis on music. There’s a program scheduled just about every night at this new place in the Maple Ridge Plaza (check the Web site for more details).

Because it’s now situated in the late Dakota, this is a good venue for music. The walls boast those same caricatures of late, great show people with lots of the Rat Pack. The sight lines are good from the dining tables and the bar. And should all this activity make you hungry, it happens that there’s a staff just waiting to serve you. And a pretty good sized menu, too.

Information about the restaurant

The theme here is on casual food, sandwiches and burgers, mostly, but there are at least two soups.

We tried the Three Cheese Baked French Onion ($4.50) and found that while it boasted a healthy browned cap and was attractively served in a ramekin, the broth beneath was weak, weak, weak, and almost tasted burned.

Chicken Enchilada Soup ($4.50), on the other hand, was enjoyable. Creamy, tomato-based, soothing yet zesty, it was a good choice for a cold night.

About the most expensive item on the menu is the 10-ounce Center Cut Sirloin at $15; the companion zeroed right in on it. He ordered it medium rare and, by gosh, it came medium rare, but that’s about the best I can say for it. I know, I know — it’s foolish to expect a fabulous steak for $15 these days, but somehow you keep hoping, and this one wasn’t even in the running.

No texture; very little taste.

The French fries in accompaniment, though, (ta da!) were wonderful. Crisp and fresh tasting, better than the fries at more upscale restaurants. Nice surprise.

And maybe the C. should have ordered a burger. At least six different burgers are offered and — how am I going to put this? Dainty they ain’t.

Topped with cheddar; topped with American cheese; topped with BLT; with mushrooms, with blue cheese dressing. Or topped like a pizza with pepperoni, cheese and pasta sauce, the 12-ounce burgers run from $8 to $9.25. You can order them smaller for $1.50 less or king size for $1.50 more.

I went for a junior Tina’s Tantalizing Greek Burger, piled with spinach and feta cheese. It was pretty darn good.

Desserts are not made in house here — no surprise, of course, but on the other hand also not too enticing. We settled for a Hot Fudge Sundae and two spoons ($6) and it was humongous.

Lots of ice cream (three scoops, I think), lots of whipped topping, but nowhere near enough chocolate sauce. Still, it slid down.

Other possible menu choices include the omnipresent fried calamari (tossed with hot cherry peppers and shaved cheese for ($9); souvlaki ($8 with chicken); “Bobby McGee’s Famous Stir Fry in a Pita” with “zesty soy sauce” ($8); a Jumbo Club Sandwich ($8, they’re in love with American cheese here); and seafood dishes and pasta.

Portobella Mushroom Ravioli with mushroom and brie sauce is $11; Homemade Jumbo Cheese ravioli with Marinara is $9.

Food may simply be an adjunct to Bobby McGee’s music but if you choose carefully from the menu, you can eat quite well.

BOBBY MCGEE’S

Three stars*

WHERE: 4224 Maple Road, Amherst (831-3271, www.bobby-mcgees.com). It’s mainly a music venue with a pretty full calendar of events. But a full menu is offered, should you be so inclined.

Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Chicken Enchilada Soup

NEEDS WORK: 10-ounce center cut sirloin

PRICE RANGE: Burgers and sandwiches from $8. Pasta from $9.

SERVICE: Very good.

HOURS: Lunch, Monday through Friday. Dinner, Monday through Saturday.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: In the plaza

RATINGS: Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.

* indicates that restaurant is so new that this is a provisional rating.