They seat maybe 30 people at the tables and maybe another 15 at the bar, so the Europa Bistro kept turning away customers one wintry Friday evening. And it’s not hard to see why.

The tiny shoe box, which just changed hands, offers a surprisingly diverse list of mostly Middle European dishes on its one-page menu and wall boards. It’s the kind of food that’s hard to find anywhere else in the area.

Chicken Paprikash with Potato Dumplings ($16)? Braised Pork Shank with Apple Rosemary Puree and Mustard Greens ($14)? Bigos, that hearty Polish stew with homemade rye bread ($8 or $14)?

They’re all here. There’s a warm ambience in this crazy quiltlet of a place, about the size of many Western New York coat closets. Tables are shoehorned everywhere and there’s not much room to walk in between. In addition, an attractive bar centers the room.

Brrrr. On that chilly evening, a bitter draft kept coming in the front door. (The door is barricaded with heavy brocade draperies but they are often askew.)

Eat hearty, friends, the place seems to say. Have a glass or two of wine and you won’t feel that winter air so much. And you know what?

They just may be right.

My first course was an evening special. Stuffed roasted foie gras, a large portion for $13. The delicate liver enclosed apricots and pistachios — can you even think of anything more luxurious? And it was served alongside mostarda di frutta, a condiment that mixes fruits in a sweet/sour sauce. It cut through the richness of the dish like a well-honed knife.

I’ve never seen mostarda in any other local restaurant that I can recall — correct me if I’m wrong—and the contrast made for an extraordinary dish.

The companion opted for the Homemade Pretzel — like a big crisp bun with wonderful Spar’s sausage ($9) and that wasn’t exactly what you might call delicate either. But it was tasty with a homemade beer mustard accompaniment and it went down with a smile. We also had ordered a side dish of Potato Pancakes with caramelized onion and sour cream ($7), but in the excitement of the evening, they forgot to bring it to us. The way things were going, we had already indulged so much, that was probably pure luck. (The pancakes looked great at the next table, I jealously say.)

Then there were the main courses. Gulyas in a huge soup bowl ($6). I found the amply served beef was slightly tough and dry, but I longed for some bread to mop up the broth.

And then there was a plump Duckburger served with a side salad of gorgeous Bibb lettuce ($14). Actually, I like the salad better than the burger, which was surprisingly bland. (Some of that Mostarda would have set it—and the bun—off really well.)

The regular menu also includes Hangar Steak with frites and watercress ($19) or a Beef and Pork Ragu — which is, of course our old friend Bolognese, although this one is made with house-made pappardelle and crisp pancetta. You don’t see too much pancetta (cured Italian bacon) around these parts either, especially not in a dish that will run you either $9 or $16.

Desserts are house-made. The two we chose were not Middle European, but who’s complaining? Sticky Toffee Pudding ($7) is British, the warm toffee sauce just topped through the rich cake in an overwhelming way, although it could have a little more dusky caramel flavor.

And then there were Churros ($7) — think Spanish or Mexican doughnuts. These spirals were obviously house-made and fresh and they didn’t come loaded with powdered sugar or cinnamon as they often do.

Instead, they were accompanied with a little bowl of rich dark chocolate sauce to dip them in. Oh my!

EUROPA BISTRO

Three stars

WHERE: 484 Elmwood Ave. (884-1100). Tiny restaurant between Hodge and Utica has just changed ownership. It still offers a surprisingly large menu, mostly of stick-to-the-ribs mid-European fare. Wine and beer only.

Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Stuffed Goose Foie Gras

NEEDS WORK: Gulyas

PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees from around $9. SERVICE: Very good.

HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 a. m. to 2:30 p. m. Tuesday through Friday. Dinner, 5 to 11 p. m. Tuesday through Thursday; 5 p. m. to midnight on Friday, Saturday.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, though the restaurant is small and crowded.

PARKING: On the street.

RATINGS: Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.