This is a bright little place — but, in this case, size doesn’t matter. Why? This is a place with very big ambitions.

The Savvy Gourmet opened this summer aiming, it seems, to take on the whole culinary world. Its tiny premises house a carefully edited cookware shop, a stunning demonstration kitchen (demos and classes), catering facilities and — the subject of this review — a small cafe.

The cafe boasts maybe six tables, some at standard height; others elevated to bar level. The menu focuses on simple foods like salads, panini, soups and baked goods. That’s not meant to diminish the menu, because simple food is hard to make, as any good cook can tell you.

Simple food has to take its licks on its own. Innovation is OK, but no heaps of esoteric ingredients or culinary tricks can mask mistakes. In other words, it’s a challenge.

Take the Savvy’s soup as an example. Two varieties were on hand when we arrived for lunch the other day. Roasted Garlic Bisque (8 ounce bowl, $4.95) turned out to be a creamy, soothing mixture with loads of plump, gently flavored cloves afloat. When you cook garlic, you take most of its assertive quality away. This was a soup for those who approach the divine clove with constraint.

The two big croutons in the bowl also made it more soothing.

Even better was the Mexican Chicken Soup — I’m calling it Mexican though I’m not sure the cafe does, because of what was added to the excellent broth. Lime juice for one thing. And fresh tasting cilantro. A tiny hit of heat— but not too much. It was multilayered and delectable.

On now to the central part of the meal. The Foccacia of the Day ($10.95), individually sized, was a picture from a food magazine. Layers of fresh spinach, feta, cloves of that same roasted garlic, crisp crust. And we loved the salad that accompanied it.

Built with mixed greens, mostly spinach, it included tomato, cucumber and radishes, but the major distinction was its dressing. Balsamic vinaigrette, obviously made in-house with a touch of, what was that? Horseradish? That dressing knew its place, all right. It did not try to take over the scene. It was happy in its role as supporting player.

We found a Sirloin Steak Panini on the menu, too ($12.95), a real open-mouth special, based on a tender, thinly cut sirloin with a little horseradish cream, caramelized onion and blue cheese to add interest. With this, we ordered root beer (the cafe has herbal tea, coffee and wine as well), but not just any root beer. To our surprise and pleasure it turned out to be Saranac Root Beer, made in New York State and the best we’ve ever tasted. To our mind it just proved how careful Savvy is with its shopping list.

Of course, we had to have dessert. Pastry chefs seem to abound in this place. The Chocolate Chip Cookie was full of huge chocolate chunks and the Brownie was just what a brownie should be. That means fudgy and dense, not too sweet and with no “cake-y” feel.

Good thing that that brownie was a big one.

What else can you order at the cafe? The selection tends to vary, but you could try a Grilled Chicken Waldorf Salad, containing pears as well as apples, candied walnuts and blue cheese ($11.59). Or Roasted Beet Salad (orange segments, goat cheese, citrus vinaigrette). Or Turkey Club Panini (bacon, lettuce, tomato, Dijon mustard). Or a Grilled Vegetable Wrap with housemade hummus and feta.

Ala carte weekend brunch also offers quiche and mimosas.

THE SAVVY GOURMET

Three stars*

WHERE: 4610 Main St., Amherst (626-2665, www.savvygourmetbuffalo.com). A bright little kitchenware shop, cooking school, caterer, cafe that serves fresh, carefully prepared food.

Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Mexican Chicken Soup

NEEDS WORK: Food is of excellent quality.

PRICE RANGE:Salads from $7.95; sandwiches with salad from $10.69.

SERVICE: Very good.

HOURS: Cafe is open 11 a. m. to 3 p. m. Monday through Friday; 10 a. m. to 2 p. m. Saturday (and soon, Sunday Brunch).

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: In the rear RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.

* indicates that restaurant is so new that this is a provisional rating.