A new addition to the Elmwood Avenue dining scene always starts a buzz in the neighborhood. There’s a lot of foot traffic on the street, so sidling up to windows and peering inside is strictly de rigueur from the very second the first signage is posted. Tokyo Shanghai Bistro, which opened last month, is no exception to that rule.

And all that spying turned out to be worth it.

This is a handsome restaurant, done in sleek, Asian style. The colors are muted; the booths commodious and the lighting flattering. Tokyo Shanghai, no surprise here, specializes in both Japanese and Chinese cuisine with one side of the extensive menu for each. Not to mention the sushi bar at the back.

A few interlopers manage to work their way in nevertheless — there’s some Thai food, a few Singapore items and even a chicken wing or finger if you look.

In other words, there is something for everyone.

Since there were two of us, we each took on one of the major cuisines. Hot and Sour Soup was $2.50 and pretty good, too. Full flavored and slightly unbalanced with spicy winning out over sour. But the fried dumplings — almost a necessity if you’re going Chinese — were a major disappointment.

The dumplings came out almost before we blinked our eyes, so we should have known. And someone must have just hurled them onto the plate. They were sloppy and badly formed, hardly able to hold together . . . I’m trying to think of the right adjective to describe the texture but all I can come up with is decidedly uncrisp. Back to the wok for this item.

All of the usual Chinese entrees are on the menu. You’ve got your fried rice, your lo meins, even your chop suey ($6.25). The Chef’s Special list kicks the selection up a notch. Orange Beef ($10.95), Lemon Chicken ($11.95), Shrimp with Lobster Sauce ($10.95).

We opted for Four Seasons ($13.95), a generous stir fry of jumbo shrimp, chicken, beef and vegetables, served with a side dish of rice. It was the best choice of the evening.

Moving steadily east, we found the Miso Soup to be gently flavored but pleasant. But a Japanese appetizer called Negimaki ($6.25, broiled beef rolled around scallions and served with teriyaki sauce) was incredibly tough.

Still, the entree saved the day — again. Shrimp Teriyaki ($13.95) was a good portion of shrimp and onion served more than generously.

You’ll note other teriyaki dishes on the menu and plenty of tempuras, too, but much of the Japanese side of the menu is involved with sushi. There’s plenty of it and an interesting selection. There’s even a special Sushi Lunch served from 11 a. m. to 3 p. m. You get five pieces for $8.50 with soup and salad.

But then again maybe a Bento Box lunch would be more fun. This runs $8.95 including rice, a California Roll, Shumai or Gyoza dumplings and salad. Also included: choice of teriyaki dishes or tempura.

TOKYO SHANGHAI BISTRO

Two stars*

WHERE: 494 Elmwood Ave. (886-3839, www.tokyoshanghaibistro.com). A handsome new addition to the Elmwood dining scene where the menu offers not only Chinese and Japanese cuisine, but Thai food as well. You can even get Buffalo wings, chicken fingers and pizza logs.

Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Four Seasons

NEEDS WORK: Fried Dumplings

PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees from around $8, usually with soup and rice. Sushi Rolls from $3. Sushi Lunch Buffet, $8.50.

SERVICE: Very fast and efficient.

HOURS: 11 a. m. to 10:30 p. m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a. m. to 11:30 p. m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 10 p. m. Sunday.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: On the street

RATINGS: Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit with greatest weight given to the food. * indicates that restaurant is so new that this is a provisional rating.