Fried catfish has mostly been thought of as a Southern dish in the United States, served up with hush puppies and cole slaw on the side. But catfish is also prized in Thailand, especially its central region, where fried catfish serves as the center of a crunchy, tangy salad.

At THAI ORCHID (416 Evans St., Williamsville, 565-2094), ordering the Crispy Catfish Salad nets you a Thai classic.

“We grill [the catfish fillet] first, then shred it and deep fry, which makes it crispy,” said owner Chat Saiprasert. The fish is coated with fine bread crumbs before frying, but people avoiding bread can have the cook skip the crumbs, he said.

Thin slices of fried fish are tossed with a tangle of greenery, including lettuce, sliced red onion, chili pepper and sour green mango, then dusted with ground peanuts and whole cashews. The salad is dressed with a mixture of lime juice, palm sugar and fish sauce, balanced harmoniously to offer the five flavors of Thai cuisine: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and spicy.

The kitchen is also happy to accommodate people who don’t want to eat fish sauce, the fermented Thai and Vietnamese condiment, said Saiprasert. “We can take that out and substitute something that will make it taste good.”

Since the crispiness of the fish is a main point of the salad, it doesn’t take long to arrive. After it’s dressed in the kitchen, Saiprasert said, “We serve that really quickly.”

Meals on Wheels, which delivers food to homebound elderly and disabled people, is holding its annual PLATE EXPECTATIONS FUNDRAISING DINNER from 6 to 9 p. m. Sept. 22 in the Hyatt Regency, 1 Fountain Plaza. Drinks, dinner and entertainment are on the menu. Tickets are $75 through www.mealsonwheelswny.org or by calling 822-2201.

—Andrew Z. Galarneau