It’s not enough to cook up innovative culinary ideas when designing a dish. They have to be intelligent, innovative ideas. Some of today’s chefs forget that when they, laudably enough, try to move away from a same ol’, same ol’ menu.

They never go overboard at Torches, I’m happy to say. The food may be a little different from what you’re used to, yes. But we say vive la difference.

I’ll give a few examples. There is, for instance, the Pierogi Cake appetizer ($8), a witty take on the Polish favorite that everyone in Western New York knows and loves. But it’s not encased in dough. Instead, kielbasa and sweet/sour cabbage are combined with mashed potatoes before being baked into a fluffy, mouth-watering mound. And served with — what else — sour cream. I enjoyed that cute little jolt of hot sauce that turned up in there, also.

Then there is the famous Nickel City Mac & Cheese ($16). I love this thing. There’s blue cheese alfredo sauce, sundried tomatoes, buttermilk fried chicken and Frank’s Hot Sauce. (Get it? Of course you do.) It’s real Western New York symbolism.

Torches is also well-known for the use of seasonal ingredients. And at this time of year that means pumpkins, apples and squash. Who’s complaining? When Chef JJ Richert sent out an amuse bouche of crisply fried won-ton skins embracing squash, wealthy apples and a bit of pork, we couldn’t get enough. We loved the Pork and Apple Stuffed Ravioli ($10), too.

Torches’ Winter Caprese Salad is made from red and yellow beets with fresh mozzarella. And since Chef Richert had recognized us, he also sent out some Pumpkin Soup, a triumph enhanced with maple syrup and roasted pumpkin seeds. Oh yes, the sourdough bread is house baked and was served with a fresh-tasting parsley pesto.

The Companion ordered what might be considered a standard favorite. Filet Mignon Trio ($32) came out grandly and generously. The Filet, Pan Seared Scallops and Cajun Grilled Shrimp all towered up on the plate. With a couple of pats of butter atop, too. “The chef will melt your butter for you,” we were told. And out he trotted — with a little butane burner and did the job. A bit of theater.

My Veal Saltimbocca Garganelle ($23) was a twist on the classic Saltimbocca theme, but instead of simply sauteing the veal and prosciutto, the veal turned up in light meatballs form, served atop house-made garganelle pasta liberally incorporating sage. The prosciutto, crisply fried, was used as garnish and the rich Marsala sauce was fully flavored.

Dessert? With a nod to Mae West, Diana Krall and Blossom Dearie, let’s say they peeled us a grape. Concord Grape Pie is a real pain to make, too. You have to slip the skins on all those little purple globes for starters. But that pie was an amazing thing all right — from all those grapes growing right down the road.

And it was just like falling into a jar of Welch’s jelly.

TORCHES

Four stars

WHERE: 1141 Kenmore Ave., Kenmore (447-7915, www.torches1141.com). A small, slightly funky restaurant serving carefully thought-out, innovative food. Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Veal Saltimbocca Garganelle

NEEDS WORK: Food is of excellent quality.

PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees from $16; many are $25 and up.

SERVICE: Excellent

HOURS: 5 to 11 p. m. Monday through Thursday; 5 p. m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: Lot next door. RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.