If you’re in the habit of reading our restaurant box before you get to the review, you already know that Lagniappes (pronounced LAN-yaps) is small. But maybe you don’t realize how small exactly. It’s not much bigger than a habanero chili to tell the truth — and if you can’t manage to shoehorn yourself into its diminutive non-air-conditioned confines or on the patio, you’ll have to rely on takeout.

Takeout, in fact, seems to be a very popular option.

Well no wonder, Lagniappes — the management defines the word as Cajun talk for “a little something extra” — offers some of the most authentic New Orleans cuisine served hereabouts. Not everything on the menu is available I warn you. At an early Saturday dinner almost half of the dishes we opted for were unavailable including the seldom seen Maque Choux corn casserole and Eggplant Galatoire. At least Fried Chicken was on the specials list ($10.88) and that made up for a lot. It was really delectable, crispy, juicy fried chicken. And highly recommended.

There was Gumbo, too — after all, it’s the restaurant’s prize-winning dish. Such Gumbo! A cup is $4.35 and that thing was chock full of vegetables, chicken and andouille sausage. The broth they swam in (if you could even find the broth) had a teasingly spicy, almost smoky taste. This Gumbo has been the recipient of the Taste of Buffalo award and there’s even a vegetarian version for $1 less. (The veggie version makes use of okra.)

Jambalaya is always available on the menu as well ($11.90) and it was my choice. This time, I’m sorry to say, we were disappointed. Too much rice — it seemed like the output of the whole state of Louisiana was heaped on that plate — too few go-withs. Only very small amounts of tiny shrimp, andouille and chicken were incorporated. Also, the sauce itself was not balanced well. It almost tasted like a whole shaker of cayenne pepper had been unloaded at the last minute.

On the other hand, Chicken Fried Steak ($15.23), another seldom-seen dish around here, was a treat. It was pounded to a fare-thee-well so it was tender as could be (we could actually hear the pounding from the kitchen). The meat was covered with the traditional white country sausage gravy. (Note when it comes to Chicken Fried Steak, it’s flour-thickened gravy that accompanies, not any high falutin’ “sauce.”) This is a humble dish with humble origins, and at Lagniappes it was delicious. Also, the huge hunk of garlic mashed potatoes that the steak rested on was anything but ordinary.

The mashed sweet potatoes side was worth the journey, too. These sure didn’t come out of a can. The Mac & Cheese didn’t come out of a package either. Cheesy and wonderful.

Desserts here are house made and they vary from day to day. Chocolate Tart ($3) was excellent and the ubiquitous sweet potatoes turned up in a surprisingly light pie. There’s often cheesecake.

What else is on the menu? A Cajun Sampler (crab cake, jambalaya, red beans, rice, fried oysters, a cup of gumbo) runs just under $20; Bourbon Pork Chops, $14. “Slightly spicy” Creole Meatloaf over Bourbon with mashed sweet potatoes ($13). And then there are the Po’ Boys ($5.50 and up). Lots of choices — eggplant with hot peppers, pesto chicken, sliced filet mignon, etc. Even an Open Hummus Po’Boy with roasted red peppers, asparagus and alfalfa sprouts ($5.50).

How’s that for multiculturalism?

LAGNIAPPES

Three Stars

WHERE: 244 Allen St. (883-3663, www.lagniappescafe.com). There’s seating for about 15 people in this funky Cajun place in the heart of Allentown. And maybe another 10 diners can sit outside if the weather cooperates. One thing is for certain though — there’s a whole lot of takeout going on. No beer or wine. Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Gumbo

NEEDS WORK: Jambalaya

PRICE RANGE: Entrees from $10 include vegetables and/or starch. Sides are $2 each. Po’ Boy sandwiches from $5.50.

SERVICE: Casual, but good.

HOURS: 4 to 11 p. m. Sunday and Monday; 4 p. m. to midnight Tuesday and Wednesday; 4 p. m. to 4 a. m. Thursday through Saturday.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Very small surroundings.

PARKING: In the lot.