Sippy's: Unique ethnic mix on menu has hits and misses
You’ll have to admit, it’s an unusual format. Sippy’s Restaurant, a large place not that far from the airport, sports a big sign to inform us that it specializes in Italian, American and Indian cuisine. Even in an area of many ethnicities, that’s an impressive lineup.
Italian? We’ve got plenty of Italian here. There are more Italian restaurants than any other kind here in Western New York. American? Obviously goes without saying. And, of course, we have plenty of Indian restaurants, too. But, it’s the combination of cuisines that makes Sippy’s unique for sure. It covers a good percentage of the culinary world.
Only in America.
Reading the extensive menu, we immediately noted that fewer American or now-considered-to-be-American offerings are represented. You have your hamburgers and subs, wings and fingers. But there are a lot more Italian entries — everything from stuffed shells to cacciatores. And even more Indian dishes, too. All the good breads are listed, rice dishes and tandooris; and for dessert, the syrup-soaked cake balls called Gulab Jaman. (The menu is nothing but honest in telling us that in Sippy’s, they are made with Bisquick.)
The two of us mapped out a route to follow.
One, we decided, would go the Italian route; the other would go for Indian. And, it goes without saying, sharing would not only be encouraged, it would be a necessity.
Now comes the truth: There were high points and low, but we enjoyed the Italian more. We liked the vegetable soup, served from the buffet, because it was not only tasty but also good and hot. We liked the bread tray, especially the long thin rolls that resembled salt sticks without the coarse salt. And we were impressed by the chicken cacciatore ($13.50), a huge serving over spaghetti. It looked like an entire small bird on that dinner plate — and plenty of sauce as well. It was much more spicy than we might have expected. We wondered: Were Indian principles taking over the kitchen? But also, no complaints. That sauce was really satisfying.
Moving over to Indian, some mixed reviews here. An appetizer order of samosas ($19) consisted of one large, very well almost overfried, pastry filled with mashed potatoes and peas. It was accompanied by some good spicy chutney.
Naan, the slightly puffy bread baked in a tandoori oven, was pleasant, too. But we were disappointed with the tandoori shrimp ($13.95). Though ordered “medium” spiced, it was almost bland. The shrimp were chewy and the vegetables, mostly onion, were nothing more than a weak stir-fry. Accompanying so-called basmati rice had no fragrance, tasted like cold Uncle Ben’s and contributed nothing.
Raita ($1.95), however, the inspired combination of yogurt and chopped cucumber and maybe a bit of cumin, was a soothing delight. And we decided to forego the wonders of the Bisquick gulab and order a mango lassi ($2.50). Basically an Indian milkshake served in a chilly tall glass, it was an inspired mixture of yogurt and mango — and everything ended happily.
But all this was just the tip of the culinary iceberg, needless to say. There’s so much on the menu here. On the Indian side, it would be worth investigating the thali platters, offered at lunch and a great deal. It’s a complete meal in one place. The vegetarian thali is $5.95 and provides rice, naan, salad, raita, yellow dal (lentils) and saag paneer (spinach and cheese). The nonvegetarian thali for a dollar more includes all of the above with chicken or lamb curry.
The Italian side of the menu offers an assortment of specials based on pasta, including lasagna ($10.95), tortellini with alfredo sauce, ravioli and eggplant parm. And at lunchtime in this melting pot of a restaurant, you can even order that wonderful sausage, pepper and onion sandwich, Giambotta.•
SIPPY’S RESTAURANT
Two and a half stars
WHERE: 3455 Genesee St., Cheektowaga (631-0289).
You don’t find too many restaurants that specialize in Italian, American as well as Indian food, but here’s one. A wide variety is offered in each ethnic category. Credit
Cards: American Express, MasterCard and Visa.
FAVORITE DISH: Chicken cacciatore
NEEDS WORK: Tandoori shrimp
PRICE RANGE:Dinner entree specials from $7.95 include soup and salad. Lunch specials weekdays from $6.95. Thali (complete Indian lunch platters) from $5.95. Wednesday dinner buffet is $10.95.
SERVICE: Very good.
HOURS: Lunch and dinner seven days. Until 9:30 p. m. Sunday through Thursday, until 10:30 p. m. Friday and Saturday.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PARKING: On the street.
RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit.
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