Verbena: New chef lets creative juices flow
There’s a new chef at Verbena, a dignified upscale restaurant on Maple Road that many years ago was the site of the late Daffodil’s. Bruce Wieszala is his name; he’s a Buffalo native who has spent the last few years in Atlanta, where he cooked at some well-known restaurants and appeared on the Food Network occasionally. His sous chef is John Hammill. The more formal dining-room menu reflects the man’s interest in contemporary ingredients and local produce. (The casual informal “grille” menu, served in the large and very handsome barroom, provides sandwiches and — should you be in the mood for it — a deep-fried Twinkie or two ($3). Those short rib sliders don’t sound half bad either, by the way.)
On the dining-room menu, however, more complicated fare awaits. I was especially taken with my appetizer choice, grilled prosciutto-wrapped roasted asparagus ($10), topped with a perfect deep yellow-yolked sunnyside up egg, no less. (And with the addition of a bit of shaved truffle, pecorino and lemon on the side.) Even the Companion’s choice, the field green salad ($7), was a little bit special. This was a huge salad with a sparkling assortment of greens, red onion, fresh goat cheese and a delicate yet savory vinaigrette. I was later told that the lettuce comes from Ben Brook Farm in Amherst.
Let me put it this way: When it comes to greens, freshness counts.
Entree time. I went for the sauteed striped bass ($28), enhanced with an addition or two, including cute little artichoke agnolotti. These obviously handmade ravioli-type dumplings added a neat little bitter edge to the rich fish. I liked the sides of vegetables, too. And the whole thing rested on (or in) a thin broth made from, according to the menu, marzano tomatoes, elegantly brought out warm in a separate little pitcher and strongly accented with the fruity flavor of olive oil. Now, I usually like my fish prepared simply, without too many ingredients, but I found this more elaborate bass to be more than satisfying and just a little bit different. And, I might add, a more than generous helping to boot.
Next, we tried an evening special dramatically called a crab tower ($28). It was a complicated edifice indeed: one deep-fried soft-shell crab resting on a lump crab cake resting on coleslaw made from celery root with a (local) wild ramp beurre blanc. A lot of disparate elements, yes. But it worked.
Other entrees on the dinner menu were perhaps a little more conventional, but still with an innovative accompaniment to make a diner sit up and take some notice. Some examples: A roast chicken breast (at $19, the least expensive item on the dinner menu) comes hand-in-hand with caramelized fennel and caperberry raisin relish; the grilled rack of lamb ($32) comes with handmade potato gnocchi, fava beans and fresh mint. And the glazed pork tenderloin ($24) shows up with baby bok choy and ginger garlic fried rice. In case you wondered, and I’m sure you did, the grilled 16-ounce ribeye has a gorgonzola crust and is adorned with 18-year-old balsamic vinegar (at least that’s the age the menu claims). We’re really getting up there in price these days, I guess.
There weren’t too many interesting restaurant-made dessert selections offered — they are probably waiting for local berries, god bless ’em — so we settled for what may be the richest brownie in Western New York ($8), gilded with what seemed to be honest-to-goodness softly whipped cream sans an excess of vanilla and sugar. This brownie was so saturated with chocolate that we could barely finish it.
Nothing succeeds like excess.•
VERBENA
Three and a half stars
WHERE: 930 Maple Road, Amherst (580-3125; www.verbenadining.com). There’s a new chef at this upscale restaurant, once the setting of the late Daffodil’s. There’s a handsome barroom and the food, basically of Mediterranean bent, is enlivened with creative and in-season touches.
Credit cards: American Express, MasterCard and Visa.
FAVORITE DISH: Grilled prosciutto-wrapped asparagus appetizer
NEEDS WORK: Food is of good quality.
PRICE RANGE:Dinner entrees from $19 include vegetables and/or sides. (Most entrees in the high $20s.)
SERVICE: Very good.
HOURS: 5 to 10 p. m. Monday through Thursday; 5 to 11 p. m. Friday and Saturday; 5 to 9 p. m. Sunday.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PARKING: In the lot.
RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.
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