Rooster’s Cafe is in a plain, square building on an industrial strip of Ridge Road in Lackawanna. So stepping inside is a bit of a shock. The decor is bright, from the red and white walls to the checked floors, and there are roosters everywhere.

We stopped by around noon on a recent Saturday and chatted a bit with the friendly server, who told us that the owner’s father nicknamed him “Rooster” as a child because he has always been an early riser. He added that all the roosters—the wall plaques, the china figurines, the stuffed Foghorn Leghorn and the life-sized statue standing on a counter holding a platter on which squats a hen— were brought in by customers.

But a nice welcome and some friendly banter alone won’t keep customers coming back. For that, you need some good food at reasonable prices. And Rooster’s Cafe delivers.

The breakfasts were reasonable, priced from $1.95 for a fried egg on toast to $5.95 for the hungry man’s platter, which includes three eggs, home fries, toast, three sausages or bacon, and two pancakes or French toast.

And speaking of pancakes— they have so many kinds that we only remembered banana, strawberry, chocolate chip, pecan and Reese’s Cup, although we asked to hear them twice. Then we ordered plain ones, three for $3.75. They were piping hot—we’d heard the piercing “ding” of the cook’s hotel-style desk bell and seen our server stride over to the kitchen window immediately. They were soft and sweet-tasting, with a fluffy, moist interior. Better than the ones we make at home.

The hash was a generous portion, estimated at a half-pound or more, not too salty, speckled with tiny cubed potatoes and slightly browned. It was perfect, classic hash.

From the lunch side of the menu, we picked a cup of soup ($1.95), which on this day was split pea, and it was much too hot to eat, and thick enough to support a spoon vertically. It tasted smoky, with bits of ham.

A club melt drew the best parts of a club sandwich and a melt into one. Made with three slices of grilled bread, it included turkey, ham or roast beef, melted cheese, tomato and strips of bacon. A wonderful combination, perfectly crispy outside and melty inside. A side of mac salad was a bit heavy on the mayo, but it was spiced up with tiny chips of onion, celery and carrot.

—Anne Neville

Rooster’s Cafe Rooster's is open on Mondays from 5 a.m. to 2 p.m.; on Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 5 a.m. to 3 p.m.; on Thursdays from 5 a.m. to 4 p.m.; on Fridays from 5 a.m. to 5 p.m.; on Saturdays from 5 a.m. to 1 p.m.; and on Sundays from 6 a.m. to noon. It is handicapped-accessible.