Restaurant Review / Syros Restaurant
Lack of eye appeal colors opinion of chicken dish
LEWISTON — Question: Who says looks aren’t important?
Answer: Those trying to make up for a deficit in said department.
Looks most definitely are important . . . whether in the fashion world — where people don’t eat to look good —or the real world—where people eat what looks good. Today’s lesson focuses on the latter.
As anyone who has ever dieted can attest, “bad” food usually looks so-o-o good. That’s part of the problem; if it looks that good, it must taste great, right? Conversely, can “good” food look bad? That was the question I asked myself during a recent visit to Syros, a Greek-American eatery occupying the former Clark’s Burger House space in historic downtown Lewiston.
We met up with a couple of friends one Saturday evening to chat and have a bite to eat. Syros — named after one of the Greek Isles — got the nod because none of us had yet had the pleasure of a visit.
It’s a nice-enough looking place, very roomy and open although a little on the dark side, with classical decor and an interesting glass-block partition.
Eyeing up the Saturday specials, Teresa and I each found something to our liking. She went for the hometown favorite with the Greek Pastitsio ($8.99), while I strayed a little off course, finding the Sangria Chicken ($12.99), described as “pan-seared chicken slow-cooked in a Sangria marinade.” Sounded deliciously different.
Likewise, one friend went Greek with Beef Souvlaki ($12.50) while the other chose more traditionally with a Chicken Caesar salad ($7.99).
I decided to start things off with a cup of the homemade soup of the day, Savory Cabbage ($2.29 a la carte, mine was included with the dinner). It was quite tasty, with large chunks of cabbage and carrot slivers in a subtle, beefy broth. It was a nice warmer-upper for a brisk evening.
My evening took a turn when the entrees arrived. The pastitsio looked good, as did the souvlaki, and the Caesar was, indeed, a Caesar. My plate, however, looked like, for lack of a better word . . . carrion.
The skinless, split chicken breast acquired a distinctly pinkish-red tint from the Sangria that, unfortunately, made it look more like it was either freshly processed or woefully under-cooked. Neither of which was the case, of course, but that just serves to illustrate how important looks can be.
The immediate reactions from my dining partners ranged from “Eww!” to “I wouldn’t eat that!” Even the marinated orange slices accompanying the meat had “the look.” I thought it over and decided I would be a trouper and try it.
The Sangria effect really didn’t come through at all. Rather, it was just kind of bland. Teresa tried it, too, and said she could detect the Sangria. I offered to let her have the rest, in exchange for her entree, but she declined. She was enjoying her pastitsio, which is a Greek beef-and-macaroni dish flavored with cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg and blended with cheese and custard.
She received a hearty portion of the thick concoction and finished it with no problem. I took a taste and thought it a little on the tame side. I guess the trade would have been a wash-out, at least from my perspective.
Glen complained that he “couldn’t tell the chicken from the croutons,” which he described as “very crispy.” Likewise, he said he “wasn’t excited” about the greens in his salad.
Through it all, Michelle thoroughly enjoyed her souvlaki, which was served over a bed of greens with some nice pita bread. The meat was plentiful and plenty tender and tasty, she said. She found her home fries a little bland, however, as were the Greek potatoes.
I’m still not certain whether my chicken was all that bad, or whether the looks simply turned me off to it before I even sampled a bite. But it does go to show how important looks can be.
Syros
869 Cayuga St., Lewiston (754-1900)
★★½
(Out of four)
Favorite dish: Beef souvlaki Needs work: Chicken Caesar salad Healthy choice: Sangria chicken Price range: Moderate Service: Adequate, friendly Noise level: Subdued Wheelchair access: Yes Parking: Connected lot, on-street Kid appeal: Decent
• • •Hours: 6 a. m. to 10 p. m. Monday through Saturday, 6 a. m. to 3 p. m. Sunday.
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