Bloom (July 25) Athenaeum Hotel, Chautauqua Institution, Chautauqua (800-821-1881). Young chef aims for world-class cuisine from the best Chautauqua has to offer. 8 plates

Shalimar Garden (July 18) 3192 Sheridan Drive, Amherst (835-0700, Indian restaurant offers Chinese-Indian and Kashmiri dishes, not just lunch buffet. 7 plates

August Bistro (July 11) 32 Main St., Hamburg (649-3200, Veteran chef, ambitious menu deliver fine dining, fresh seafood. 7 plates

Alex’s Place (July 4) 8322 Park Road, Batavia (585-344-2999, Smoky, sticky ribs, cream pies, old-school charm; plenty of reasons for hungry to exit Thruway. 8 plates

Duke’s Bohemian Grove Bar (June 27) 253 Allen St. (240-9359, Fresh seafood, smoked wings, truffled fries alongside live music raise the bar in Allentown. 7 plates

Brick Oven Bistro (June 20) 904 Abbott Road (844-8496, Graceful touches, house-made offerings surprise in South Buffalo tavern setting. 8 plates

– Ratings based on 10 plates. Reviews by Andrew Z. Galarneau