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Bucheron is two goat cheeses in one.

Each slice has a creamy, brie-textured ring ripening under its rind. In the center, though, is a crumbly, semi-dry cheese resembling fresh chevre.

The soft outer ring is produced by the cheesemaking bacteria converting the starter curd, and will grow as time passes.

Created in France's Loire Valley, the tangy cheese can be served with salads, fruit or crackers. It can also be used in cooking, such as pastas or the souffle recipe here.

Curd word: The French word bucheron means lumberjack, a reference to the cheese's usual presence in logs of about 11 ounces.

This James Peterson recipe calls for four 8-ounce ramekins, but the Washington Post notes that it also will work divided among six 6-ounce ramekins or two small (7-by-2 1/4 -inch) oval gratin dishes.

> Easy cheese souffles

Unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the ramekins

Flour, for dusting the ramekins

8 ounces medium-ripe goat cheese, preferably Bucheron

6 large eggs, room temperature

Pinch cream of tartar

Freshly ground black or white pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter insides of ramekins. Dust with flour. Shake out excess. Space out ramekins on baking sheet.

Trim rind from cheese, and put cheese in a deep mixing bowl.

Separate eggs into whites and yolks, placing whites in the clean bowl of a stand mixer or hand-held mixer.

Use a fork to work 3 yolks into cheese; the mixture should be a bit pasty, like small-curd cottage cheese. If not, add fourth and, if needed, fifth yolk, mixing well.

Beat egg whites on low speed, then medium-high speed until frothy. Add cream of tartar and beat just long enough to form stiff peaks.

Fold a quarter of beaten egg whites into cheese mixture. Season with pepper to taste, then fold in the remaining egg whites; some streaks of white may remain. Divide evenly among the ramekins.

Increase the oven heat to 400 degrees and bake for about 20 minutes, until souffles are tall, golden brown on top and firm outside, yet soft inside. Transfer ramekins to plates; serve immediately.

e-mail: agalarneau@buffnews.com