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There's an old-fashioned feel to the King's Court Restaurant, situated on Delaware Avenue, about one good hop from the bustling bars of Chippewa. Oh, King's has a bar, too, but it also has an extensive, elegant dining room behind it with cloth-covered tables and huge chandeliers and what is described as a Greek-American menu.

But this is the good old US of A after all, so a few other nationalities creep onto the dinner list. Spinach Bread with mozzarella ($5.95), Wienerschnitzel (more on that later), bruschetta ($6.95 -- would any Western New York restaurant in this day and age dare not to offer bruschetta?). Even stir fries and Mexican food are served as snacks in the bar.

Anyway, you get the idea. It's a United Nations of a place. There's plenty to pick and choose.

We tried to be authentic, though, beginning our evening meal with Spinach Pita Pie ($6.95). It was more like a pizza than the traditional triangular pastry we were expecting. Heaped on a flat piece of (slightly soggy) filo pastry were spinach, of course, tomatoes and feta. Not bad; not bad -- but a surprise nonetheless.

We also tried the soup of the evening. Zucchini Vegetable with plenty of vegetables added to a beefy broth. Pleasant enough soup and served alongside thick slices of Italian white bread. What was most important: It was served very hot.

Entree time. And I opted for Greek Style Athenian Chicken atop rice. The price was $15.95 for a heaping plate of diced white meat tossed with some very fresh tomatoes and huge hunks of feta. (Not too clever ordering on my part, since the dish seemed to be a reprise of the Spinach Pie with the addition of the chicken and the subtraction of the spinach.)

In accompaniment came a fresh salad with what was described as creamy Greek Dressing. It was creamy indeed, but I expected a little more citric zing.

The Companion crossed international lines to order Wienerschnitzel ($15.95) served a la Holstein, meaning with a fried egg atop. Sadly, the egg was the best part of the meal. The veal scallops, served generously, were bland.

For dessert, rice pudding ($4), of course. Not on the menu, but emerging miraculously from the kitchen after our server smiled and said she'd check. Two spoons, topped with a big puff of whipped topping, and strongly vanilla scented, so soothing. At last, we had made a great choice.

Nobody seems to sleep at King's Court because the place dishes up food almost continuously. There's breakfast (many omelets) and lunch (sandwiches, salads) and even late-night snacks like prime rib sandwiches and chicken in the grass sandwiches.

As you'll note in the dining box. That's very late.

***

KING'S COURT

2 1/2 stars (out of 4)

WHERE: 189 Delaware Ave. (www.kingscourtrestaurant. com, 856-9262). It seems to have been here forever. This large, old-school restaurant specializes in friendly service and Greek-American food. Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Rice Pudding

NEEDS WORK: Wienerschnitzel a la Holstein

PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees with potato and salad start at $15.

SERVICE: Excellent

HOURS: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Bar is open until 4 a.m.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PARKING: On the street (metered) or in lots.

RATINGS: Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News? visit ? includes service, ambience, innovation and cost ? with greatest weight given to quality of the food.