The first time I met chef Paul Prudhomme, he was peering over the stove in his narrow test kitchen, a converted shotgun house just outside the French Quarter in New Orleans. Prudhomme was heating oil in a large cast-iron skillet, and when he saw me, he invited me over to watch him fix gumbo.
When the oil was smoking hot, he quickly whisked in flour to form a roux – “Cajun napalm,” he called it – the bubbling mass darkening to a deep chocolate brown in minutes. He stirred a trinity of vegetables into the roux to stop the cooking – onions, celery and bell peppers – then added the roux to a pot of boiling stock. Chopped andouille sausage and garlic went in as he patiently watched the stew, tasting occasionally, over a slow, quiet hour while it gently simmered away. When the rich aroma was almost too much to bear, Prudhomme added chopped chicken, and soon the gumbo was ready.
I can’t say which I savored more: the depth of flavor from a seemingly simple dish or the unhurried quiet, almost sacred, time spent preparing it.
Unlike a typical weeknight dinner rushed to the table after a long day, stews are patient, as much about the sheer pleasure of cooking as the finished dish itself. It’s the simple alchemy of time and ingredients layered in a pot to form something lush and rich, with a depth of flavor that cannot be duplicated with a shortcut.
Spiced Butternut Squash Stew
2 poblano chiles
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
2 tablespoons oil
2 onions, diced
5 pounds butternut squash (2 medium, or 1 large), peeled, seeded and cut into ½-inch cubes
1/3 cup dry white wine
6 cups vegetable broth
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon New Mexico chile powder
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup maple syrup, divided
½ cup raisins, coarsely chopped
6 to 8 pieces stale bread, preferably dark whole-grain, coarsely chopped
1 cup heavy cream
Fine sea salt
Tabasco sauce, optional
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced on the bias
Roast the poblano chiles over high heat on a rack over a stove-top burner. When the skin is charred all over, place the peppers in a paper bag. Leave them for about 10 minutes, then remove and peel the skin – do not rinse. Discard the stem and seeds, and chop the peppers into a one-fourth-inch dice. Set aside.
In a Dutch oven or small stock pot, combine the butter and oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until the onion just begins to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the cubed squash and cook, stirring frequently, until the squash begins to soften, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the wine and scrape all the cooked bits from the bottom of the pan, and cook until almost all of the wine is absorbed. Stir in the broth, the diced chiles, the paprika, chile powder, cinnamon and nutmeg, and season with 1 teaspoon salt and one-half teaspoon pepper. Stir in 3 tablespoons maple syrup and the raisins. Adjust the heat so the stew reaches a low but steady simmer. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the squash is very soft and tender, an additional 10 to 15 minutes.
Uncover the soup, and ladle 2 to 3 cups broth, with some squash, into a blender. Add the chopped bread and blend until the bread is pureed and the mixture is thickened. Pour back into the Dutch oven, stirring to thicken the stew.
Slowly stir in the cream, and gently heat the stew. Taste and adjust the seasoning as desired. Add the remaining tablespoon maple syrup to sweeten, if needed (depending on the sweetness of the squash) and a few dashes of Tabasco if desired. Remove from heat.
Pour the stew into bowls, and garnishing each serving with a little of the sliced green onion. Serve immediately.
Serves 6 to 8.
Each of 8 servings: 465 calories; 8g protein; 63g carbohydrates; 10g fiber; 22g fat; 11g saturated fat; 56mg cholesterol; 22g sugar; 738mg sodium.
Chicken and Andouille Smoked Sausage Gumbo
1 small (2- to 3-pound) chicken, or ½ of a large (5- to 6-pound) chicken, cut up
1½ teaspoons salt, divided
1 teaspoon garlic powder, divided
1 teaspoon ground red pepper (preferably cayenne), divided
1 cup finely chopped onions
1 cup finely chopped green bell peppers
¾ cup finely chopped celery
1¼ cups flour
Vegetable oil for deep frying
About 7 cups chicken broth
½ pound andouille sausage, or any good pork sausage (such as Polish kielbasa), cut into ¼-inch cubes
1 teaspoon minced garlic
Cooked white rice, for serving
Remove excess fat from the chicken pieces. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon salt and one-half teaspoon each garlic powder and ground red pepper over the chicken, rubbing the seasoning over both sides of each piece. Set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine the onions, bell peppers and celery in a bowl.
Combine the flour, remaining one-half teaspoon each salt, garlic powder and ground red pepper in a paper or plastic bag. Add the chicken pieces and shake until the chicken is well coated. Reserve one-half cup of the flour mixture.
In a large, heavy skillet, heat 1½ inches of oil until very hot (375 to 400 degrees). Fry the chicken until the crust is brown on both sides and the meat is cooked, about 5 to 8 minutes per side; drain on paper towels. Carefully pour the oil into a glass measuring cup, leaving as many of the browned particles in the pan as possible. Scrape the pan bottom with a metal whisk to loosen any stuck bits, then return one-half cup hot oil to the pan (discard the remaining, or strain and save for another use).
Place the pan over high heat. Using a long-handled metal whisk, gradually stir in the reserved flour. Cook, whisking constantly, until the roux is a dark red-brown to black, about 3½ to 4 minutes, careful not to let it scorch or splash on your skin. Remove from heat and immediately add the vegetables, stirring constantly until the roux stops darkening. Return the pan to low heat and cook until the vegetables are soft, about 5 minutes, stirring constantly and scraping the pan bottom well.
Meanwhile, place the broth in a 5½ quart saucepan or large Dutch oven, and bring to a boil. Add the roux by the spoonful to the boiling broth, stirring until dissolved between each addition. Return to a boil, stirring and scraping the pan bottom often. Reduce the heat to a simmer and stir in the andouille and minced garlic. Simmer, uncovered, for about 45 minutes, stirring often toward the end of the cooking time.
While the gumbo is simmering, bone the cooked chicken and cut the meat into one-half-inch dice. When the gumbo is cooked, stir in the chicken and adjust the seasoning as desired. Serve immediately. (To serve, mound one-third cup of cooked rice in the center of a soup bowl and ladle about 1¼ cups gumbo around the rice.)
Note: Adapted from “Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen” by Paul Prudhomme.
Each serving: 540 calories; 32g protein; 41g carbohydrates; 2g fiber; 27g fat; 4g saturated fat; 86mg cholesterol; 3g sugar; 1,605mg sodium.