Around here, most successful breakfast specialists aim for volume, big plates piled with food pumped out as fast as possible to enable quick turnover of tables.
Not at Break’n Eggs Creperie. The breakfast-lunch place opened in September on Main Street in Williamsville. The cozy place only seats about 35. A line often forms on weekends, especially after 10 a.m. We negotiated for the best table, a six-seater with a view of the crepe-making station in the open kitchen.
Crepes, savory and sweet, are the main event. Dessert crepes run $4.25-$5.75. The savory crepes, served with house salad, are stuffed with more fillings, starting at $9.95 for a basic crepe with eggs, cheese and ham, bacon or sausage, to $13.50 for the smoked salmon with lemon dill cream sauce. (It’s $1 more to substitute gluten-free buckwheat crepes.)
There’s also French toast ($8.25), fluffy buttermilk pancakes studded with fresh fruit or chocolate chips ($8.95), omelettes, and a breakfast special ($8.25) using local eggs, with meat, toast, fruit and potatoes.
I ordered the Crepes Benedict Classic ($10.95) with two poached eggs over ham, asparagus or spinach and hollandaise sauce, with fruit and potatoes. Cat opted for a crepe stuffed with scrambled egg, bacon, Swiss cheese and spinach ($11.70).
My eggs were poached perfectly. The judicious serving of hollandaise was buttery and bright from fresh lemon and gently spiked with chile. The buckwheat crepe was faintly nutty. With a small serving of fresh melon, berries, pineapple and grapes, it was a winning plate. Cat liked her crepe with its freshly sauteed spinach and smoky bacon. “But I want more bacon,” she said.
A ham-sausage-bacon-cheddar omelette ($10.25) was a meaty triumph. A sweet-toothed kid’s order of a crepe with bacon and candied walnuts proved a sensation, to no one’s surprise. The eater who asked for buttermilk pancakes with bananas could only finish two of the flapjacks.
A bowl of potato bacon cheddar chowder ($4.25) proved homemade, with firm potatoes and carrots in a relatively light cream base flavored with cheese, more bacon and a tingle of heat.
The potatoes were a distinct disappointment. Sides of “crispy breakfast potatoes” ($2.50) turned out to be soft red-skin potatoes with salt and pepper and no crispiness.
The beef tenderloin tip crepe ($12.50) offered loads of hearty flavor with its distinctly caramelized onions, mushrooms and blueberry chipotle sauce. Surprisingly, the blueberry flavor came through pleasantly, but the sauce would have benefited from a touch more smoky chipotle heat. The beef was cooked accurately, pink inside, but its presence in large slices made eating the crepe a bit more Wrestlemania than I liked. Still satisfying, though.
A S’Mores crepe ($5.75), with graham cracker crumbs, melted chocolate, marshmallow and more chocolate, mini-marshmallows and whipped cream, was a delicate dessert teetering on the brink of decadence. By comparison, a dulce de leche crepe ($5.75), with briefly sauteed apples, more candied walnuts and caramel sauce, hurtled itself off Decadence Heights in a swan dive.
Break’n Eggs has broken the mold and achieved another flavor of breakfast success, serving restrained portions of high-quality breakfast dishes with touches of finesse.