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The frost line has begun to inch back toward Buffalo, but as the Christmas lights dangling from the ceiling can attest, Faso's (2126 Niagara St., 873-4147, fasosrestaurant.com) is ready.

One of the favorites that regulars look for when the temperature dips is Faso's pork medallions in Marsala wine sauce with mushrooms ($13.95), a dish that has been on the specials menu for the better part of 15 years without cracking the regular lineup.

"I did it as a special one time, and then after everybody was wanting it, we had to put it on the specials sheet, which is in the back of the menu," said chef-owner Pat Fuller. "I have some other fantastic dishes, too. But you got to have something special, something you can play with, instead of the same old."

Fuller takes slices of pork loin, pounds them out and coats them in egg and flour before browning them on both sides. Then they're seasoned with Faso's spice blend and bathed in a sauce of sweet wine, garlic, butter, mushrooms and more.

Fuller noted that the pork comes with a side of pasta, or mashed potatoes and gravy. "In the winter, it's more popular because it's comfort food, and it's not (red) sauce."

Andrew Z. Galarneau