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Dino DeBell, the chef at Coles (1104 Elmwood Ave., 886-1449), fell in love with Colorado lamb during the decade he spent working in Vail.

"I'm a Colorado guy, and Colorado lamb is one of my favorite foods in the world," he said. But the Coles lamb burger didn't happen until he got the bun figured out.

The standard Buffalo hamburger roll can get soggy with a juicy burger inside. One day at Premier Gourmet he picked up some Wolferman's sourdough English muffins, sturdy and tasty enough to tame the lamb burger. He ended up ordering Wolferman's by the case. "It just soaks up the fat of the lamb," DeBell said.

With John Diati, now chef at Blue Monk, he fashioned the Coles lamb burger: ground lamb, "then baby arugula, dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, feta cheese and Kalamata olives, a nice salad on top of there. Serve it with a little tzatziki and fries."

The $12 plate helps Coles stand out, he said. "I always try to be a little one step to the side, a little different," said DeBell. "I'm always looking for the one sandwich you can only get here. I'm always looking for that one thing."

Andrew Z. Galarneau