Buffalo is a town that loves its fried fish, but at Black Rock Kitchen & Bar (491 Amherst St., 551-0261), customers' favorite fried fish has a south-of-the-border flavor.

The bustling Black Rock eatery offers tacos sporting chunks of crispy fried perch, with housemade pico de gallo and guacamole. The fish is from north of the border, actually - it's usually Canadian lake perch, said chef Dunbar Berdine.

Simplicity, speed and freshness are keys to the dish, Berdine said. "We dredge it in a seasoned cornmeal and fry it 'til it's crispy, then put it in tacos with pico we make, and guacamole." The flour tacos spend a moment on the grill for some warmth and smokiness.

"We garnish it with some local microgreens, a combination of radish sprouts and kohlrabi sprouts, which give a cabbage-y crunch," said Berdine. Then they're hurried to the customers, who are often enjoying the restaurant's new patio.

"It's been selling real well," Berdine said of the tacos, which come three for $14. "People love 'em."

- Andrew Z. Galarneau