DINING REVIEW
Juniper: In heart of Elmwood Village, an imaginative menu
It took a while to get here but Juniper finally opened last month in the very center of the Elmwood Village. In fact, the restaurant is so determined to become a neighborhood hangout that it actually offers a 20 percent discount on Tuesdays to diners who live in the 14222 ZIP code. It’s called the “2-2-2 deal.”
And though it is sited in an old house, inside everything is contemporary. Bright colors prevail both on the main floor (which is reached by a flight of stairs from the street) and on its second floor. (Catch, if circumstances allow, the decor of the ladies room on that upper level — it’s one of the most imaginative I’ve seen.)
The menu is imaginative with cute titles (maybe a little too cute in some cases, you may need a server’s help to discern what it is you’re really ordering) and unusual flavor combinations. There’s another interesting thing: the flavor of juniper, an astringent berry best known as a major ingredient in gin, turns up in many items on the menu. Now that could lead to disaster — juniper is, after all, a pretty assertive flavor — but executive chef Kate Elliott and sous chef Roo Buckley handle it adeptly. That juniper is well integrated and adds real distinction to the food.
The berries along with honey and orange zest turn up in the ricotta dip that accompanies the house-made foccacia at the beginning of your meal, for instance, and in the “paint” added to the lamb shank entree (more on that shank later). In both cases, a definite plus.
Another important part of the Juniper philosophy is the emphasis on homegrown ingredients. Locavores rejoice! There’s a list on every table of the Western New York-raised products at market that week. You can, if you wish, go right across the street to the Lexington Co-op and purchase these items or, if it happens to be Saturday, stroll down a block or two to the Bidwell Market. Failing that, you can just sit back, order and enjoy how someone else puts them your dinner plate.
The House Salad ($7) we tried on a recent visit contained the expected greens but also fresh peas and fresh corn kernels. (And to make matters even more emphatic, that salad was dressed in a tangy juniper honey vinaigrette.) There was cold Avocado Corn Puree offered in the soup department and heirloom tomatoes, zucchini and summer squash were sprinkled everywhere.
Some of the food offered is very innovative. Take my Fried Egg Soup ($6) — and by the way, have you noticed how poached and fried eggs are turning up all over the place these days? They top burgers; they garnish salads. In my case, they turn up in soup. A tiny quail egg floated in scallion broth, redolent of ginger. I wish I could say that that little thing added a real taste lift, but it really didn’t though it sure looked cute. Also, intentionally or not, the soup was offputtingly cool.
I have nothing but praise, however, for the Edamame Falfafel appetizer ($9), a vertical presentation served on flat bread with stuffed grape leaves and pickled beets. And I loved my entree, Tea Smoked Duck ($26), some of the best duck I’ve tasted hereabouts, tender and smoked in orange pekoe served alongside Basmati rice with a wine-soaked raisin here and there.
The sight of the Lamb Shank (the Companion’s choice and also $26) really knocked us out. We almost expected a caveman to accompany that huge hunk of meat (called “Pilate’s Bones” on the menu). But it was so tasty with the juniper glaze, accompanied by farro risotto. (Farro is a chewy ancient grain much loved by the Roman legions as they tramped over everything. Maybe it was the secret of their strength.)
Other entrees include Tempeh Shepherd’s Pie with a chevre potato crust; Chicken Sausage with arugula and manchego gnocchi; Halibut with radish raita, heirloom tomatoes and spaetzel pepped up with a sprinkle of turmeric.
Desserts continue to hold the imaginative standard high. Three little pots du creme, for instance — one lavender, one vanilla, one, you guessed it, juniper. And another trio, this time of chocolate truffles — the real chocolate truffles with almost unbearingly intense fresh chocolate ganache filling. Flavors? Bacon, rose water and peanut butter. All great.
But take it from me — the peanut butter is the best.•
Juniper
Three and a half stars*
WHERE: 810 Elmwood Ave. (885-5239, www.juniperelmwood.com). A new restaurant with an adventurous menu and with great emphasis on local food sources. Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.
FAVORITE DISH: Tea Smoked Duck
NEEDS WORK: Fried Egg Soup
PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees with vegetable and starch from about $22 and up.
SERVICE: Very good
HOURS: 5 to 10 p. m. Tuesday through Thursday; 5 to 11 p. m. Saturday; 11 a. m. to 3 p. m. Sunday Brunch
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No
PARKING: On the street
RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food. * indicates that restaurant is so new that this is a provisional rating.
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