DINING REVIEW
jojo bistro: Notable winter fare, fine wine pairings
Published: November 27, 2009, 9:13 am
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Eat and drink in handsome surroundings. jojo bistro & wine bar opened this month right next to the much more imposing (and much more expensive) Black & Blue Crab & Steak House. It offers a casual way to fill the void.
The place is small, extensively adorned with pseudo-aged wood and such. There’s a good-looking bar and seating at both bar height and regular tables. As you would expect, the wine list is long and varied, offering wines segregated under divisions marked “light,” “medium” and “powerful.” Aside from a very few show-off bottles priced at over $100, most are in the $25 range; most (not all) are U. S. vintages with only one New York State representation (a Heron Hill Reisling). Wines by the glass are $6 up.
Varietal wine flights are offered, too — three 2-ounce portions from $8. We chose a Pinot Flight, receiving nicely arranged glasses of 2008 Heron (Sonoma); Castle Rock (Willamette Valley) and Cycles Gladiator — all classified under “light reds” on the menu but differing in body. (The Companion went for the Oregon Pinot, and I liked the heavier Gladiator.) The charming server seemed well trained and able to answer questions about both food and drink. (But we hope that in the future she’ll feel compelled to ask, “Is everything all right?” only one time as the evening goes on.)
When you’re drinking wine, you want to enjoy a snack or two, and jojo’s starts the evening off right by bringing a warm paper-bagged baguette to the table. Just pull off a hunk of this nice bread and eat.
The menu also makes some artisan cheese available and a little charcuterie. And there’s a whole list of “fare to share” starting at $6, that includes wonders like “Raclette,” which in this case consists of in-house prepared potato chips topped with melted Gruyere and blue cheese. There’s Duck Spring Rolls, Crispy Pork Belly with
an apple and maple compote and what is now becoming the requisite sliders — three mini burgers of beef, lamb and bison.
Personally, I could stay with this menu for just about forever, but decisions had to be made. We settled for Roasted Figs stuffed with Stilton and wrapped in prosciutto ($10). Loved ’em. (Having spent pretty much all last week trying in vain to find fresh figs for a dinner party, I appreciated them all the more.)
Pasta and Pizza is offered at jojo’s, but we went for the larger fare. Braised Short Rib ($18) was saturated with flavor, especially as it was served with Parmesan polenta and porcini cream.
And so was my Cassoulet ($17)—a classic peasant French dish of baked beans, duck con-fit, bacon and not-quite authentic chorizo. As far as I know, no other Western New York restaurant serves this on a regular basis—too bad. It’s winter food and best enjoyed with a powerful red wine.
We ordered desserts, too, although neither one of us could finish them. The Flourless Espresso Chocolate Torte ($7) was enormously rich; the Chilled Fresh Berry Sabayon a tad more refreshing since the custard was light and boasted mixed berries and bits of crunchy cake.
JOJO BISTRO & WINE BAR
Three and a half stars
WHERE: 5493 Sheridan Drive, Amherst. (204-8664, www.restaurantjojo.com). A casual and attractive wine-centered restaurant that offers interesting snacks as well as full meals.
Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.
FAVORITE DISH: Cassoulet
NEEDS WORK: Food is of good quality.
PRICE RANGE:Snacks from $6. Dinners from $16. Wine Flights (3) from $8. Bottled wines mostly in the $30 range.
SERVICE: Good
HOURS: Lunch, Monday through Friday. Dinner, 7 days. 11:30 a. m. to 11 p. m. Monday through Thursday; 11:30 a. m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; and 4:30 to 10 p. m. Sunday.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PARKING: In the lot.
RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News’ visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.
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