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Monday, March 22, 2010

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It’s amazing how much of the Thanksgiving meal can be made ahead of time

Cook’s day off: Make these Thanksgiving dishes ahead of time

NEWS FOOD WRITER

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Before Paul Schultz’s friends come over to his Sloan home for Thanksgiving dinner, some of them skip meals.

That’s because Schultz, a self-employed bachelor, offers a dozen dishes, all homemade, from his turkey (boned out, stuffed, rolled and roasted) right down to the mince pie and dinner rolls.

The trick to his one-man orchestra of flavor? “You have to make it ahead,” Schultz said.

If he didn’t bake pies and assemble side dishes in the days leading to Thanksgiving, there would be no stuff in one day,” said Schultz.

“You’d be pulling your hair out.”

With Thanksgiving barely a week away, here are some terrific dishes you can make a day or two ahead, and reheat without distress.

Schultz agreed to share his corn pudding recipe, from Jenny Karpinske, his Polish grandmother. It’s versatile; add sharp cheddar and roasted green chile, and it can sing a Southwestern tune.

• Mashed potatoes can be made ahead, dotted with butter and browned to order.

• Casseroles and baked dishes can be covered with aluminum foil and reheated in the oven. Remove foil to brown top.

• “Freezer rolls” can be made, frozen as dough weeks ahead, then allowed to rise, ready before baking.

• Even a turkey can be roasted the previous day, then carved and rewarmed in a pan with stock.

• Stuffing, baked in a pan, might even be better a day after it is made.

Spread the cooking over several days before dinner, and this Thanksgiving home cooks might enjoy the holiday for a change.

“This way,” said Schultz, “you can actually talk to the people you’re having over, and have a good time.”

Colonial Corn Pudding

1 can whole kernel corn, drained
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
3 eggs, slightly beaten
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon dried parsley, or 1 teaspoon fresh, chopped
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 1/2 cups milk (not skim)
Salt and pepper to taste

Combine corn, onions and eggs in bowl. Whisk in flour, baking powder, parsley, sugar, butter and milk. Season with salt and pepper.

Pudding mixture can be made the day before and refrigerated.

To cook, preheat oven to 350. Pour mixture into buttered 1 1/2 quarts casserole or single-serving ramekins. Place dish or dishes in pan with 1 inch of water. Place in oven.

Bake until firm, and knife inserted in center comes out clean. That’s about 1 1/2 hours in a single dish, or about 35 minutes in ramekins.

Southwestern Corn Pudding

Make recipe as above, adding:

1 4-ounce can roasted green chile, drained
1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon finely sliced fresh cilantro

Stir chili, cheese and cilantro into egg mixture. Sprinkle more cheddar on top if desired before baking. Bake as directed above.

Next is a cheese-potato gratin based on food writer Jeffrey Steingarten’s recipe. Alternate potato slices with turnip, sweet potato or celery root for different flavors.

Herbed Potato Gratin

1 1/2 pounds baking potatoes, like Russets
4 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper
1 cup milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 clove garlic, crushed
Optional:
2 tablespoons fresh thyme or rosemary leaves
1/4 to 1/2 cup grated pecorino Romano or other piquant cheese

Preheat oven to 425.

Bring milk and garlic clove to a boil with pepper and salt. Peel potatoes and slice about n-inch thick, discarding smallest slices. Layer potatoes into buttered baking dish as overlapping slices, like fish scales.

Bring milk to boil again, pour over potatoes, removing garlic. Cover with foil and put in oven. Bake about 20 minutes, until most of the milk is absorbed. Meanwhile, put cream and fresh herb (if using) into pot. Bring cream to boil, watching carefully so that it does not boil over onto the stove. Remove from heat.

Remove foil from potatoes. Bring cream to boil again, and pour over potatoes. Dot with remaining butter, and sprinkle with cheese, if using. Bake 20 to 25 minutes until cream thickens and top browns, rotating dish for even browning. Let rest at least 15 minutes before serving. Reheats well.

From “Gourmet Today,” an updated vichyssoise brightened with spinach. The soup can be made up to two days ahead, but don’t add the spinach until it is heated for serving.

Curried Potato Leek Soup with Spinach

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 cups chopped leeks (white and light green parts), washed well
1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 2/3 cups water
1 3/4 cups chicken stock
1 cup whole milk
5 ounces baby spinach, coarsely chopped

Heat butter in large heavy pot until foam subsides. Add leeks, potatoes, curry powder, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are softened, about 5 minutes.

Stir in water and stock, and simmer uncovered until potatoes are soft, about 20 minutes.

Scoop out one cup of mixture and puree until smooth. Return to pan, stir in milk, and bring to a simmer. (Soup can be made up this point, to two days ahead, and refrigerated.)

Bring to a simmer and stir in spinach, until it wilts, about 1 minute.

Find another half-dozen recipes online at Andrew's blog, Hungry for More blogs.buffalonews.com/hungryformore

agalarneau@buffnews.com


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