DINING REVIEW
The Basket Factory: An old-fashioned country eatery
Published: July 24, 2009, 12:30 am
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MIDDLEPORT — It looks like every-one’s idea of the perfect country dining destination. The Basket Factory is, after all: (1) located in an historic building, (2) decorated quaintly with old-time tables and chairs, lace curtains and a plethora of pretty baskets hanging from ceiling beams. And, to add even more country cred (3, 4, 5), the place is situated right on the Erie Canal, has its own marina (which was the old log pond; the water there could use a little attention) and a gorgeous patio, too.
The menu is so vast in this restaurant (the site was indeed a factory, dating back to 1893, and producing berry crates and bushels for Niagara County farmers) that no one will go hungry. There is even a kids’ menu. If it ever stops raining, the obvious plan is to head for that patio and sit at an umbrella table, but almost all the tables in the inside dining room overlook the water as well.
At dinner one weeknight, we began our meal with two house specialties. Seafood Bisque (cup, $4.95) had plenty of seafood in it, heaven knows, and was satisfying, even though the soup was floury and over salted. Shrimp & Artichokes ($8.95) turned up in a little casserole dish and there were loads of artichoke hearts and shrimp and even more cream sauce, supposedly flavored with Sambuca, and a goodly amount of Provolone. Both apps were accompanied by some really delicious warm dinner rolls — a touch of class that was much appreciated by us both.
The house salad was a little different than expected. The mixture of greens was topped by sliced apple and some chopped nuts. I’ll admit I approached it warily (the memory of too many tea-roomy Waldorf salads in my youth, no doubt), but this salad was delicious, with tart apples and not too many of them. Sans mayonnaise, thank goodness. (Come to think of it, maybe it was the mayonnaise I always objected to. It seems in those days there was a heck of a lot of mayonnaise.)
But I digress. For my entree, I selected a house specialty, Duck & Sauerkraut ($17.95). Half a duck and a lot to eat. The poultry, adorned with a tasty orange glaze, was crackly crisp, the inside meat very well done but still juicy. Not a meal for a hot summer day, maybe, but we haven’t had many of them anyway. The Companion’s half rack of ribs ($15.95) was good tasting.
The dessert selection was offered on a plate. A huge slab of Creamsicle Cake ($5) was very sweet but, disappointingly, not Creamsicle-y. A brownie that looked like a little round chocolate cake was good.
What else could we have had? Deep fried Apple Almond Chicken ($14.95). Veal Portofino with Bermuda onions, mushrooms, artichoke hearts over spaghetti ($15.95). Prime Rib is served on weekends ($16.95 and up). Tuesday evening is Small Plate Night with a variety of contemporary-styled dishes if you so choose.
The lunch menu is varied, as well — nice place to while away a summer afternoon on the canal. Big selection of salads, sandwiches, wraps.
But I do have a suggestion: I wish the management would put more emphasis on locally grown produce. The Factory is located, after all, in the midst of rich farm country. The very structure exists because of that background, and we had no sense of that when we ate dinner here. Where are the berries? Where is the corn? Even the wine list is heavily California centered. For shame! The Niagara Wine Trail is practically at the front door.
And here, by the way, is an alternate dessert suggestion: Follow Route 31 (aka Rochester Road) west to Udder Delights at 7694 Rochester Road, which is in Gasport. It’s an old-fashioned ice cream parlor with a very short season. It makes my heart sing, this place.
How long has it been since you ate a sundae with real whipped cream on it? (Not to mention a Maraschino cherry on top.)•
BASKET FACTORY
★★★
WHERE: 2 Watson Ave., Middleport (735-9260; www.thebasketfactory.net). This charming country restaurant offers a varied and large menu. Credit Cards: American Express, Mastercard, Visa.
FAVORITE DISH: Duck & Sauerkraut
NEEDS WORK: Seafood Bisque
PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees from $11.
SERVICE: Speedy
HOURS: Lunch Tuesday through Saturday. Dinner, Monday through Thursday until 9 p. m.; Friday and Saturday until 10, Sunday until 8. Sunday buffet brunch, 10 a. m. to 2 p. m
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PARKING: In the lot
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