Magnificent munchies
A little snack goes a long way when it’s loaded with flavor
Appetizers are much in demand during the holiday entertaining season — to nibble with drinks as you chat with your guests before dinner, to offer sophisticated sustenance for a cocktail party or open house, to bring out when neighbors drop in bearing gifts, to munch with family by the fireplace on the cusp of the New Year.
The ideal appetizer, it seems to us, is one that is simple but not cliched, easy to eat while standing or perched on a sofa; one that can be made in advance and eaten at room temperature; and one that you’re not likely to see on all your friends’ cocktail tables.
We’ve included recipes for guests of all stripes, from vegans to the gluten-intolerant, and we’ve tried to keep the recipes festive and special without being over-the-top extravagant. For pricey ingredients, such as shrimp or imported meats, cheeses and nuts, the secret is to choose recipes so packed with flavor that a little goes a long way. You may have been able to afford a side of smoked salmon last year, but this year you might want to buy a lot less and stretch it with our luxe but sensible smoked-salmon spread.
Fat, rich Marcona almonds from Spain are addictive enough plain; the Spanish smoked paprika (buy it in gourmet markets) and garlic add another dimension.
You can make this with plain whole toasted almonds if you don’t want to spring for the pricey Marconas (they’re sold in gourmet markets), but you may need to increase the amount of oil by a teaspoon or so.
Toasted Almonds
About 1 tablespoon oil
2 large or 4 small cloves garlic
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/2 pound Marcona almonds
Salt to taste
Place a large skillet over medium-low heat and film with oil. If there is any excess oil at the bottom of the container of almonds, add it to the skillet.
With the flat of a chef’s knife, smash the garlic cloves; discard peel and add garlic to skillet. Saute about 5 minutes, until garlic is just starting to color, lowering heat if the garlic threatens to burn. Remove and discard garlic; keep skillet on burner.
Add the smoked paprika to the skillet and stir to make a paste. Add the almonds and stir constantly until they are thoroughly coated and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes. Allow to cool in pan.
When cool enough to taste, check for seasoning and add salt if necessary. Most Marconas are sold salted, so they may not need more salt. If you make these more than a day or so ahead, refrigerate them and bring them to room temperature before serving. Serves 8 as part of a cocktail spread.
Leek Chips
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium-size leeks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Line a large baking tray with foil and coat with the oil. Remove and discard the dark-green leaves from the leeks; slice off about 1/4 inch from the root end as well, leaving the white and pale-green portions only. Use a very sharp knife to cut the leek into vinch slices, then transfer them to a large bowl of cold water. Use your fingers and thumb to separate the slices into rings, then swish the pieces around vigorously to remove any sand or grit from between the layers. Lift the leek rings out of the water and transfer them to a colander in the sink. Drain thoroughly (you can spin them in a salad spinner), then pat dry with a clean kitchen towel or paper towels.
Distribute the leek rings onto the prepared baking tray and toss to coat with the oil. Bake, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown and crisp. Some rings may be ready to remove at 30 minutes; others may take up to 60 minutes or longer — just remove them as they are done.
Drain on paper towels and season to taste with a little salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature. Yields about 2 cups
Marinated Olives with Tangerine and Rosemary
1 pound assorted olives (such as kalamata, Gaeta and Picholine)
1 small tangerine, cut into 4 wedges, each wedge thinly sliced crosswise
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, lightly crushed
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, lightly crushed
1/8 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
Drain olives, if in brine.
Combine all ingredients in a large glass jar with lid; mix well. Cover and refrigerate 2 days, turning and shaking the jar several times.
The olives need to marinate for at least two days, so plan ahead. If you like things spicy, you can increase the amount of crushed red pepper. Yields about 3 cups.
Feta with Black Pepper and Thyme
Block of feta, drained of brine
Extra-virgin olive oil
Coarsely cracked black pepper
Fresh thyme on the stem
Cut the feta into rough bite-size cubes and arrange on a plate. Drizzle all over with olive oil. Shower with pepper.
Pull the thyme stems through your fingers to remove the leaves; discard woody stems. Sprinkle feta with thyme leaves. Serve with toothpicks to spear the cheese cubes.
Oven Charred Sesame Green Beans
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons Asian chili oil
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
2 large or 4 small garlic cloves
1 pound green beans
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
Coarse kosher or sea salt
Combine vegetable, chili and sesame oils in a microwave-safe container. With the flat of a chef’s knife, smash the garlic cloves; remove and discard peel and add garlic to oil. Cover with a paper towel and microwave on full power for 30 seconds. Let sit while you prepare the beans.
Top and tail green beans, rinse them thoroughly and then whirl in a salad spinner to remove excess moisture. Pat completely dry with paper towels or a clean dish towel.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Spread beans out in one layer in two rimmed baking sheets. Remove garlic from oil and discard; drizzle oil over beans and toss beans until all are coated with oil.
Roast beans 15 to 20 minutes, depending on size, stirring and rotating pans halfway through. Beans should be browned in spots and beginning to shrivel. Remove from oven and drain on paper towels.
While beans are roasting, toast sesame seeds in a skillet over low heat, shaking pan and stirring frequently until fragrant; then remove from heat.
Sprinkle hot beans with sesame seeds and coarse salt to taste. Store in the refrigerator. Serve at room temperature. Serves 8 as part of a cocktail spread.
Lemony Smoked Salmon Spread with Bagel Chips
1/2 medium red onion, cut roughly into chunks
1/3 cup capers, drained (or rinsed, if salt-packed)
1/2 bunch dill (save a few fronds for garnish)
1/4 pound smoked salmon, separated into slices or cut into chunks
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
1/3 cup Greek-style unflavored yogurt
Pulse red onion in food processor until finely chopped. Add capers, dill and smoked salmon and pulse until chopped. Add lemon juice and zest; pulse briefly to mix. Add cream cheese and yogurt and pulse until blended. You will likely need to scrape down the work bowl several times during the processing.
Scrape into a container and store, covered tightly, in refrigerator. When ready to serve, mound in a bowl and garnish with dill. Serve with bagel chips. Yields about 2 cups.
Pickled Shrimp
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup mixed pickling spices
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1 medium red onion
1 lemon
3 pounds cooked, peeled large shrimp
4 bay leaves
1 1/2 cups olive oil
Combine vinegar, pickling spices, salt, peppercorns, ginger and dry mustard in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
Slice the onion and lemon thinly. Scatter the slices in the bottom of a serving bowl (glass is lovely). Top with shrimp. Add bay leaves. Pour olive oil over all.
When the vinegar is cool, pour it through a strainer into the shrimp bowl. Shake the bowl to settle the shrimp into the vinegar mixture. If the liquid doesn’t cover the shrimp, add a little water. Cover and chill at least overnight. The shrimp keeps up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. Serve cold with toothpicks for spearing. Serves 12.
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